Just to let you know that I've been on one track day so far. I rode up to Donnington Park from Kent last August on my bog standard SVS and had a brilliant time. I managed to do quite a lot of overtaking, despite having quite a few R6's in my group, and the whole event made me realise that it's really easy to go fast in a straight line; the skill is in how fast you can negotiate the corners! That sounds obvious, but going round the track on my SV, I was overtaken by quite a few 'bigger' bikes (R6's
595's 1200 bandits) only to gain my track position on the corners.

Try to go on a 'controlled' day rather than a 'hell for leather' nutters day out. I've heard some worrying stories about mulitple spills at some of these events, whereas if you get too hot headed on a controlled day you get 'sin binned' both for your own and your fellow track users safety.

Hope I haven't scared you off. One more thing: if you do a whole day event, you'll probably be pretty knackered by the time you've ridden home! Have a great day.

I own a race team with CMRA/CCS and would like some advice regarding our 1999 V-650. An article in April's Roadracing World described de-restricting (changing the engine mapping and increasing available horsepower) an Aprilia for closed course racing, which is accomplished by cutting a wire on the ECU (black box).

Is any opportunity to do this with the SV-650. Our team mechanic has rewired the bike, but is still confused by the black box wiring leading from the shift positioner. 

As a recently qualified rider, I am considering an SV650 as my first bike. I would welcome comments from other new riders on how they found the bike.

Also, as a relatively tall person (6' 2" or 1.88m) I would also be interested in feedback on the bike's suitability.

It's a piddly little horn. What I did was to get a new horn, one of the flat ones with a spiral horn on the top, mount this where the original horn was. Then chop the spade connectors from the end of the horn cable, and crimp some new ones on, along with another piece of cable, which runs back into the frame and then out between the yokes. This then has another couple of spades on the end which connect to the original horn. The original horn is then mounted on the headlight bracket or the right
fork leg or somewhere convenient. i.e. have the two horns wired in parallel.

It's not as loud as the air horns that I had on my old Honda, but the air horns and compressor are enormous and it was a pig to find somewhere to fit them.

IIRC the bandit has two horns, one on each fork leg?

Also from Ian........this on the subject of pillions.....

A friend of mine wanted a ride on the back of my (then) new bike. He admits to 16 stone. I've got an unfaired 1999 bike and I've reduced the preload to the minimum. Even two up, the suspension didn't bottom out, even over some pretty rough roads. It was very stable in the corners as well. I didn't get the front to bottom out either, but then I didn't try braking too hard, as he was holding on round my waist, hence I had his weight as well as mine on my arms.

First let me say what a great site you have , I have perused your pages and gleaned much needed info on the SV.

I started riding when I was 14 ( am now 51 ) and progressed to a Vincent HRD 1000 Rapide on which I completed 221 k miles ( hell of a lot for a british bike ) However the constant kickstarting of said same beast caused probs with right hip etc so It had to go . From then I had the usual succession of jap 4cyls which I find bland and
characterless so in a moment of madness I bought a 748bip Ducati (wonderful machine but totally impractical ) Now after 3 years of the Duke I have sold it and ordered an unfaired red SV. The best deal I could find on a 2000 bike was at George White of Swindon £3995 on the road and delivered ( They squirmed a bit when they found that I live in Norfolk) Should arrive 1st May ( guess who's taking a weeks holiday ?? ).

Now for the real point of writing to you. I own a motor factors in Norwich and as such I have access to certain spares at trade ( near to wholesale in some cases ) prices for example we are agents for EBC brake pads and discs , Fornalls rear monoshock units and there is a possibility that I can obtain " performance suspension fully adjustable rear monoshocks from the states ( about £260 + VAT and postage with 4 weeks lead time ) we are also agents for EBC clutch , Nippon denso and NGK plugs ,Morris lubricants. 

If you are interested I will compile some prices for fellow owners ( I can't wait to join you ).  Yes, please send the information and I will post it...

I have a red '99 SVX in the USA - Arlington, VA. Someone recently tried to steal my ride. I park it in a parking lot with a cover and when I went down in the morning to warm it up the cover was gone. Then I noticed the bars were bent, then I noticed the ignition was damaged. Looks like they tried to pop the ignition or the steering lock and bent the bars in the  process. 

Anyway, looks like the ignition and/or the steering lock is somewhat theft proof since an '85 Virago was stolen that same night in the same parking lot. Now it's off to the shop to get an estimate.

I want to make sure everything gets fixed - does anyone have any suggestions on damage to look for that wouldn't be apparent from an attempted theft?

It's Emma again - the one with the micron high level xaust. Whilst I have been laid up (bone graft - on the healing path now), I have been fitting a few bits and bobs - or rather mate Dave fitted.

I attach some piccies of the pyramid undertray we fitted - its nice, and I am glad, because after 8 hours fitting it flippin well should be! We had to cut some bits of the undertray away to accommodate the exhaust bracket,  and cut off the mud flap - so fiddley - allow at least a whole Sat/Sun to fit this.

I've got a purple engine bolt kit to fit, and I have also found a fybo-lite yoke cover (cos mine was getting scratched) and it looks really nice - some had the risers cut out for the unfaired model - there was only one  shape cover for both bikes.

But I think it looks really good - especially along with the seat cowl (also pyramid). I am gathering a few friend to come with me to your May 14th ride out, looking forward to meeting all the other SV lovers - so see ya all there.

 <<image08.jpg>> 

Not really a problem for me... I'm 12 stone (or less) about 76.2Kg (think) and the wife is smaller and slimmer (be about 10.5 stone or 66Kg, won't tell me cos she's female and thinks I'll make fun of her). If it is a regular occurrence then you will want to up the rears preload one or two notches (as outlined in the manual). Note: the front will seem/be alot lighter with a weight on the back, but this is true with any mono-shock bike I've ridden two up on.

I have notice that the MEZ 4 rear tyre (yes I know I should replace  them but there is still another 5-9tkm in them) squats a fair bit when the wee wifey gets on. MEZ4 seems to have fairly soft walls, I think BT57's  would be better. I also think the extra weight pushes the MEZ4's well past their design weight limits as I have had a few front and rear slides when two up with them (but not when riding solo when I corners alot harder).

Summary: not a prob if ya wifes not fat, notch up your rear suspension and put on some half descent tyres.

Here is a site with many interesting and informative links and articles regarding motorcycles.

http://motorcycles.about.com/autos/motorcycles/index.htm

Also, I thought I might add a few comments regarding water in the fuel tanks. 

I suspect the most common cause of flat spots in the power band come from water in the fuel, probably due to condensation, something that occurs very readily especially in cold weather, just as the dew forms thickly on cool mornings. 

If the tank is only partially filled, the rest of the space has air which also contains water. As the temperature drops over night, that air is less able to keep the water suspended in gaseous form, so it then condenses into liquid droplets. Water being heavier than fuel, it sinks to the bottom of the tank and won't be allowed to evaporate when the temperature rises again. 

A simple, inexpensive cure for this is to use a gasoline/petrol antifreeze containing isopropyl alcohol. These are made specifically for removing water from the fuel. Remember that the containers sold are usually for treating an entire automobile fuel tank, so use just a small amount (e.g.1/4 container) for a motorcycle. I recommend avoiding the cheaper antifreeze that uses methanol. It doesn't work as well and there are some engines that use parts that can be damaged by methanol. I use the isopropyl antifreeze in my cars and motorcycles on a regular basis as a preventative measure. I think less water in the fuel will also help to prevent rusting in the tank. And if I have to store the motorcycle for any period, I fill the tank to lessen the amount of air with its attendant water inside the tank.

i like many others have been following your site for a good few months now and gone and got myself a black '99 svx which has been absolutely great until i mangled it last weekend up near Ft. William in the Scottish Highlands (great roads and scenery if you don't mind riding a while to get there). (a while like in hours and hours!!)

Anyway to get to the point, I've wrecked the entire front end of my bike and the front forks need replacing and i remember some talk a number of months ago about fitting a gsxr front-end, is this possible? has anyone actually done this? if so was it expensive or difficult or what? 

i would be interested to hear from anyone who knows anything about this. (or maybe it was just my memory playing funny tricks on me again and there was never any such talk)  Anyway, failing this i'm going to try and get my hands on the normal sv forks and all the rest of the stuff, because unfortunately the police figured the accident was my fault (which it wasn't) and my  insurance was third party so i'll be the one who's coughing up.

I'll try and send some beautiful pictures of my mangled beast soon for all to see, miraculously i only suffered a broken wrist and some major bruising which goes to show about what you have said on numerous occasions about wearing good protective gear. (enough said...)

I just installed the new Vance & Hines full stainless S4 system on my SV. 

I took photos of the system and installation process to help anyone else interested in the V & H system to get a feel for the looks, install process, and even the sound.

I bought the system sight unseen (except for the can) and trust me I looked for a picture with no luck. I was pleasantly surprised with the fit and finish. I got lucky, the rest of you now can see what you're going to  get.

The site is located at: 

http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_VandH_exhaust.html

I really enjoy your informative site! -John. I have enclosed a couple of photos of me and the bike.

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I've noticed a goodly few people complaining about corroding fork legs on the site - just thought I'd let you know what a far more experienced (than me!) mate suggested (even though the road salt is nearly gone). Wash the legs thoroughly (and I mean thoroughly), then cover them with a good layer of Vaseline. Leave this on through the winter. It will soon look horrible, as all sorts of sh*t will stick to it, but when you wash it off (with lots of WD40) you should find that they look as new. I did this, and rode my SVS all through a Yorkshire winter, and the fork legs are unmarked (admittedly the bike is garaged at night).

Also, I use Castrol Chain Wax, and found that a quick squirt of this over some of the exposed bolt heads leaves them with a protective coating that also washes off with white spirit / WD40.

I've also been chatting to a couple of your contributors about fork oil, and wonder if anyone has tried uprating the fork springs (leaving the same grade oil in). This should buck up the front end a bit, without reducing the rebound rate (a problem afflicting those who've tried changing to a thicker fork oil).

Any suggestions for fork springs anyone?

For the "poppit" things, after you've removed the bolt from the side cover just take the same allen key you use to remove the bolt and poke it in the middle of the "poppit" fastener, it will recess and the side cover will come out. To replace just pull the center piece of the fastener out until it allows the "claws" to squeeze together (you'll see what I mean when you get it off) slide it into the side cover and the bodywork, then push the center piece flush with the rest of the fastener an there you have it.

On the airbox, that is a moisture drain, just drain it from time to time by removing the sleeve cover.

Hope this helps.

Me, I'm anxiously awaiting my lower from Tech-Line!! 

Also, to confirm the cover removal this from Max (maxl@iafrica.com)...

Edwin asked about removing the black side covers, here's how. In the centre of the plastic fastner is a pin, using a small nail or similar just push the pin futher into the fastner. To re-asemble just pull the pin out, replace the fastner and push the pin until flush with the mushroom head. Hopefully this will help.

Also, also.....this from Colin (joycec@freenet.co.uk)...

Don't know if this is stating the obvious, but get a nail with a diameter equal to the centre of the "poppit", grind or file a flat on to it, position carefully over the centre and hit the nail gently but positively with a hammer. This will knock the centre in allowing the panel to be removed, for re-assembly remove the "poppit" from the panel and pull the centre pin all the way through (do not push it back out), locate the panel in position on the bike and loosely bolt, then put the outer of the "poppit" back in place making sure it goes through the panel and the frame, push the centre in as far as you can by hand and then gently tap the bit sticking out with a hammer, the pin should just pop back into place.  It is designed to do this as it works by the centre pin pushing out the legs of the outer outwards so locking it in place.

We are currently thinking of buying our next car over the net, using oneswoop.com or similar, the idea being that we all know we get ripped off in the UK and I have been watching the situation in regard to the SV650 for the best part of 6 months.

I currently ride a YZF1000 Thunderace and due to impending, definitely frightening insurance renewal and the fact my wife is about to do a Direct Access course (..and the insurance company would laugh at cover on a new rider on one of those) , I am sold on a blue SV650S. The problem is, I am NOT going to pay what the UK is expected to. In short, are there any Continental dealers wishing to do a deal, France, Belgium, Holland, Germany or any of the EU, I'll probably pay  in Euros ('cos it's cheaper!) and I do not mind travelling.

If any dealers respond to this,it may be something more relevant for your UK readers as opposed to the ins and outs of importing to the states. This years price rise is a disgrace! (yes but it was always on the cards after new prices were dropped because of the parallel threat...now that's decreased due to Honda's court action against several parallel dealers in the UK the manufacturers see fit to start to bump the price up again...)

My girlfriend (god bless her) has bought me a track day for my birthday. I have done track days before (I also own a TZR250 screaming stroker !!!). However i have decided that (well girlfriend has..god damn her !!), there is no justification for owning 2 bikes and the TZ has to go soon, before the track day (June 30th at Oulton...cant wait !!!)

Has anyone out there done a track day on their SV ?, is there anything they wish they had done beforehand ?. I will have some new tyres on by then. Apart from that the bike is mechanically "stock". budget wont stretch to a big bore kit or full penske suspension, however, uprate brake pads ?, change fork oil ? braided hoses ? (do you have to drill your sump plug too?)

My bike is being repaired at the moment..3ft wide line of diesel on a roundabout..took 2 of us out. Is there any form of action we can take ? (I appreciate lawyers will more probably be found accessing the Ducati or MV Agusta sites !!!), the cops who attended suggested that there wasn't. (if you know who spilt it then it's possible but without that where do you start?)

great site, gutted about missing the rideout.....still those tulips should be worth seeing !!!! (tulips? are you going to holland then? you do know were meeting near the NEC and staying in the UK don't you!!)

I was remotely interested in a louder horn for my SV last year when I was riding behind my wife and honked the horn to get her attention to no avail.  I later asked her why she didn't acknowledge me and she said she couldn't hear me and even though the stereo in the car was not turned up. 

Yesterday I became more interested after a car pulled in front of me and did not stop or pay me any attention after two honks of my horn. It is strange the driver waited for the car in front of me to go by and then turned directly in front of me. I always consider myself invisible to others as that is how I am treated but I would like to better get their attention when need be. I narrowly missed that car and losing control of my bike and vow to do something to improve my odds of being noticed. 

Others have mentioned a louder pipe but I would like a cheaper alternative for now as my wife is not crazy on spending that much. Anyone heard of a louder horn for the SV or have the same problem? Kindly let me know if you have any advice as I have not heard any other complaints on this subject.  (I guess you could just go to a parts dealer and ask for something louder, they must do them to simply fit in place of your current one. Failing that fit air horns and that should do the trick. If all else fails get a Pan European, wear a white lid and get a yellow jacket with 'POLICE' written on it......grow a beard too!!))

I just bought an SV and found this on the net from http://www.sudco.com/


New SV650 Carb Kit Available

These Dual FCR carburetors are available in either 39mm or 41mm sizes. The 39mm kit dyno tested with an increase of 14 peak horsepower, and horsepower was increased throughout the RPM range. The most drastic benefit of fitting these carburetors would be the improved throttle response. Especially off of idle you will notice a bigger jump, and during road tests it was difficult to keep the front wheel planted on the ground even in 2nd gear.

Image 1

I just got my Canadian SV650S last Monday. The pictures do not do it justice!! I guess I lucked out since it was not a recalled VIN. I just finished shimming the carbs and rerouting the tank overflow hose. I followed the instructions that were given on your site and my room mate and I did it in about 1.5 hours.

Any hints on the black plastic side covers? I had a very difficult time getting the little poppit things out. I undid one side and then just moved the other one far enough out of the way to loosen the seat mounting bolt. (I've not been able to get mine out either, I just pull the cover back and out of the way to get at the seat bolt)

When loosening the radiator I found only 3 bolts rather than the 4 that were quoted. Also, to loosen the top right bolt I had to remove the radiator cap. Contrary to what was also stated in an earlier posting my Y2K model did not have multiple groves on the needles.

When I removed the airbox there was a spout on the bottom that had a piece of tubing stuck on it that did not have an opening (open on one end, sealed shut on the other about 1 inch long). Do you know, or has anyone mentioned what this is for?

Here is are a couple of pictures of the bike, one is ok, the other not very good. I am in the center on the poor one, and on the far right in the other.

  Image 2

Anyone ever find wider rear view mirrors for the standard bike? When I wear a jacket, most of my rear view is blocked. Asked my dealer, he has received many complaints, doesn't know of any better mirrors, wants me to let him know if I find some. (I've not heard of any either although turning the standard ones upside down would probably help...)

How's this for plastic? I would like to see a sport-touring fairing for the sv650. One that is readily removable at trips end (or during), perhaps also a sport fairing that doesn't hide the framework.

First off all, sorry for my poor English but I'm from the Netherlands and writing in English isn't quiet as easy as it is talking English.

I read about different problem about changing oil in the fork, but the best way to make the fork work in my opinion is to buy RACE TECH emulators at Race Tech in Holland (I don't know whether there is a English distributor). I did that on my forks and the bike totally changed off character.

Where it was to hard at some points (straight bumps) and to soft at other times I decided to use the emulator and all my problems where solved . I had to adjust the emulators to my riding style but after a day of riding and light changing of them it was perfect. They advised me to (in combination with the emulator) to use a 30W full
synthetic fork oil with a air chamber off 130mm.

You can obtain them for about f340,- this is about 95 pounds (with out sending) but they work perfect for me. The address is Race Tech,  Benelux, Gagelveld 8, Terheijden in the Netherlands. Telephone number is for the Netherlands: 076-5935636 or fax 076-5932921

The instructions used to say to use a jet kit with the m4 pipe. After talking with the guys at m4 this past December, their work revealed that shimming the needles on the stock set up and turning the pilot screws three turns out gives the best performance with their pipe. 

The instructions now read (mine included) to shim the needles and turn out the pilot screws. The guys at m4 (n Houston TX) told me this recommendation over the
phone as well when I was in the early stages of exhaust shopping.

Hope that helps those out there with jet kit questions.

I would like to know if the sv650s powerful enough to sit 2 on it? What about suspension with 2 on board? Thanks !! soon a sv650s owner! (depends on combined weight, probably need to jack up the rear shock to compensate. This has been talked about before in this web. My advice is to save each of the archive pages and then get hold of a copy of a 'search and replace' type utility to search each html file in batch for text strings, in this case 'pillion' or 'passenger')

A few people have been asking about the fork corrosion (Suzuki warranty claim pending), so here's a picture of the worst part, the bottom port of the left fork leg. As I said before the corrosion is working its way under the laquer, which is now flaking off. (this is not good, let us know what happens....i have a few small flakes and hope it doesn't get worse...)

On another subject, after 5100 miles the original MEZ4 rear is toast, so I've just had a pair of Bridgestone BT56s fitted. They're still at the slimey new tyre stage after 50 miles or so, but starting to feel good. Got to get them scrubbed in time for a track day on April 5th... <grin> I'll let you know more later.

Image 1

See Gregs original posting with the SV images here.

We are entering our riding season here so I am very excited. I have compiled an instruction sheet for people wanting to know how I did the transformation on the SV. I am sending it to you so you can put it on your page. Keep up the great job Kevin . An come to East Tennessee in the United states and ride the "DragonsTail " with us. It is sure to cause a few inches of seat foam to disappear!!!! IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN !!! (and I think you do) (oh....i do....and one day i hope i'll get state side..)

Gregs instruction is contained in an MS Word document with accompanying jpg's all Zipped up in this file. Download here.

Attached are pictures of my SV with the Givi E360 Topcase and Corbin seat installed. I am very pleased with both products and would not hesitate to recommend them to anyone who is interested in making their SV a better tourer. I am sending six different shots of my bike so feel free to use them however you like. (thanks)

Image 1       Image 2         Image 3         Image 4          Image 5          Image 6

Took my son out the other day for him to buy a new learner bike, he's now got a H****a 125cc Shadow (it's OK, you can say the H word on this web!), nice bike for a cruiser style learner. Problem? I now want one ( Wife's problem? Oh God, he's off again).

While there had a look around & thought the Bandit 2000 looked o/k, had a look at the "99 sv650 and thought, nah, just doesn't look as good. Yes, I know (idiot) anyway, came home and thought I would look on the web and try to find some info. (I know , I know, I'm getting there).

Found your page, eventually and that was it, in just one more week I will be collecting my "W" reg Black sv650s. God, the wait is killing me! As I'm an old, old man, nearly 42, I am also adding a hugger from NWS, fender extender from either MPS or M&P, ( anyone tell me if they make one that you don't have to screw on ???) and also engine protector bars as I like the look of them and if I am unlucky on our diesel,rubber,oil covered roads hopefully they might stop some damage. ( Anyone again, want to tell me yes/no ?, as I also wouldn't mind a lower fairing).

A few odd bits of info that someone might be interested in are:

Water in fuel = try fuel injector cleaner in petrol (not the whole bottle! as that would do a whole car tankful). This would not stop water getting in but helps it go through carbs, instead of blocking them. One drop of water can stop a carb working.

Petrol cap = Has anyone thought of drilling a small 1mm breather hole in cap so that cap could be sealed to stop the water getting in. This would be just as safe as the cap not being sealed to let tank breathe.

Rusty fasteners on engine etc = Try a clear nail varnish, made to be used in water and washing up liquid, and used to use it on my bikes back in 70's, worked quite well on the poor Japanese chrome fasteners we had to put up with back then.

Clear lacquer spray and Hammerite spray worked very well on engine cases and fork legs on an old Honda Benley and Honda ns125 that we did up for my son to learn on. Could applying these early on in the life of the sv650 stop some of the problems that everyone seems to be suffering
from, with weather damage to fork legs, front of engine, etc.

Has anyone tried using spray on grease for carb and choke linkages instead of WD40, and do they still sell the graphite grease for cables ? Just a thought.

I have now spent a lot of time reading the info on this site, and as most of the major problems now seem to have been located (I'm pretty sure they have...), though maybe not addressed by Suzuki, I really do think that as you started this, and have kept it going, that you should have some kind of thank you from Suzuki (good!). Sorry, but I don't think you're going to get one (oh...), so instead you'll just have to do with my thanks for such a brilliant site. (and I appreciate it from all who are pleased with the web...thanks..)

I have been considering purchasing an m4 exhaust and header. I was told that this brand provides the most power compared to others. I was thinking about buying the two brothers system, but I was told the m4 is better constructed and looks nicer. I just need comments on whether or not I'm making a good choice.

Finally I will need a jet kit to accompany my exhaust. There is the dynojet brand and the factory which were both recommened. The shop said that I might have to drill the slides or something though if I got the dynojet brand. Is this true? Should I drill the slides anyways? I was not sure what they meant by the slides. I need some help with the installation of the jets if anyone could direct me to some instructions. If you can help (I can't) then drop me or Kieran an email please...

Well, today I take delivery of my 4 hours uncrated 2000 Blue sv650y. (Shudder Shudder Joy Joy) Thanks for the info on the recall and my dealer here in Colorado claims that all of the bikes being shipped now have had the service for the recall completed in the factory. Needless to say I'm going to want to get a little documentation on that.

Wanted to buy the small upper fairing from Suzuki but the parts department says so far out of stock my new bike will have wings before it gets in. Any ideas as to where I can get my hands on a fairing/windscreen NOW? Anyone is the US help out on this one?

I've finally managed to get riding again - picked up my nice shiny blue S model last week and took a blast up from Bristol to the National Motorcycle Museum. It's definitely worth a visit, though I was disappointed at the distinct lack of bikes parked up there. (this may change on the 14th May......)

On the way back I decided to take the scenic route via Stratford upon Avon and the Cotswolds. I pulled into Stratford to have a bite to eat and a cup of tea, only to stumble across about two hundred motorcycles, of every description, parked up near the water. What a sight! After chatting to some of the riders I found out there is a big meet there, just by the waterside, every Sunday (I  don't usually pay too much attention to that section of MCN). I was thinking it might be fun to stop off there on the rideout and swell their numbers with a swarm of SVs, if only for a short while before we move on. I don't know how anyone else feels about it but it is a nice place, lots of culture and all that - but no speaking in iambic pentameters! (in what??? I failed English big time in school - accounts for all the bad grammar and spelling!)

I'm open minded about it so I'll check on the map and see how it looks - Roger, are you still able to suggest a route as discussed in Feb?

My name is MIke and I am just about to get my first street bike in the next year. I am not old enough to ride on the road yet but I do go on the road once in awhile. I have a XT225 dual purpose dirt bike right now and I am debating what to get for my first road bike. I am considering the HOnda F4, Yamaha R6, and the SV650. I would like to know is the SV able to pop wheelies, if yes like is it easy? Also, are those 0-60 times in MPH? and are they right? if u could tell me also the pros and cons of the bikes
and have u ever raced against any other bikes and lost or won? IF so which bikes? And could u tell me some bikes it could beat in a race? My brother just bought a used '96 Kawasaki ZX6R and I have riden it many times and floored it many times. Could the SV win in a race like for say 0-60 or somewhere around there? If i ever raced I would be in like stoplight to stoplight races u know and I would like to know how its low end grunt is? I would just like to know also the things u like about it and the things
u dislike. I know that is a lot to ask but I am really into the motorcycle stuff and I need info because I dont want to make the wrong decision.

Michael...you wrote on the 22/03 and I posted your email and replied...I thought you might have got my drift when I said I wasn't here to lecture...and I'm not...but you ask the same or similar questions again so my replies are :

The SV is as easy to wheelie as most others, it's about balance and skill of the rider not power of the bike, the figures are in mph unless quoted otherwise, I don't know if they are right for sure - I said this last time, I have never raced against any other bikes - I've ridden quickly with a few but racing on the public road is pointless and stupid, if you were to race on the road the machine type is not that important - it would be the skill/bravery/stupidity of the rider that made the difference. If you want a dragster buy a used Bandit 1200 - for power per bucks they are about the best. The things I like and dislike are littered over this web - all my writings are in blue so will stand out for you to read. I hope you don't floor to many bikes too often or the law of averages says you are not going to get up from one sooner or later, I don't wish that on anyone.

One more thing, the info that u give me, is it on the SVS or the SV? both.

I have just had a low speed drop of my SV650SX which damaged the clutch lever, gear lever, indicator and fairing. I phoned around and couldn't get after market bits for the SV as there not yet catalogued.

However my  local dealer in Leeds, Cloin Appleyards put me onto using a patent clutch lever part no 30-64962 which replaces #57620-19C00/27A30 for a GSX600  KATANA/J 88,89-93, GSXR750RE 88 and a few other things and it only cost £5.00 rather than £18.74 and also the official suzuki gear lever is the same as a GSXR750
so they had one in stock so you may be able to get one from a breakers for less money. Worth bearing in mind.

Currently studying the exhaust market for my blue svn, I have a lot of questions...

- full system / slip on : if all slip on are involving a cut of the pipe , most of them would be supplied with adapters enabling repositionning of the original muffler. True ?

- Micron full system : one dealer mentionned that the alloy required regular (weekly) maintenance to keep it in shape. He thus recommended the carbon or titanium finish. Here in France, this is worth £ 530 ! Any lower rates in UK ?

- Vance & Hynes : same question, £ 480 in France, but $ 445 in USA, what about UK ?

- Nikko slip on system has been recommended for its excellent price / quality. However, no info / pix found on your precious site or the www. Anybody owns one / can inform me about this product ?

Has any one been pulled for having a race exhaust on and what happened?. (either a slip on or full system).

I'm putting a scorpion slip on race on, on saturday and was curious to know if this has happened to anyone.  Also did you have to notify your insurance company? (only if it enhances performance but, to be on the safe side tell them about it....them having an excuse not to pay out is the last thing you need...)

My reasons for the addition are really for safety, I commute in london everyday and so far I've hit 1 pedestrian (1 point!) who just stepped out from behind a van, luckily
for him I was only going about 10mph, sent him flying, but i still dropped the bike and cracked the fairing, and countless drivers turning right THEN indicating causing quite a few brown trouser moments! I am an extremly vigilant and defensive rider so I just think if they can hear me comming, it might make a few more dozy bastards wake up and maybe check in their mirrors first!

Any stories or experience on said matter would be greatly appreciated. Keep your cheeks tight...

Because of the unacceptable high insurance costs (full insurance: 1100£/year) here in DK I'm about to add an immobiliser/alarm to my baby. The only problem is that I don't have the service manual (not available in DK as far as I know) and especially the diagram of the electrical system. Can anyone of you help me with that?

Cost £97 all in, only oil and oilfilter was replaced.

I asked them to check the cam chain tensioner and was told if it didn't move onto next 'notch' within 1000 miles then to take it back...I'll keep listening.... Also complained about black paint worn off water pump housing. Was told Suzuki wouldn't replace the cover so some paint was applied to the affected areas and it looks OK (for now...).

Everything else is OK and I'm out all day tomorrow going to Bruntingthorpe (speed testing airfield in UK) to view some testing of a 5 litre DAX (looks like a Westfield) hill climbing car that my brother maintains for it's owner...should be interesting :- ) Kevin.

UPDATE 23/03/00 (not bike related at all !!) - a lovely sunny day, dry roads, 280 miles, 170 miles from a tank full (best ever consumption!) and a great day out. The couple of hours I spent at Bruntingthorpe was great too, even got a ride in the 5 litre, 450bhp, 750kg, 4X4 DAX 'kit' car....stunning performance and awsome sound....I'm a bike man but this car is the fastest thing I've been in/on...hopefully it will beat all the competition in this seasons British Midland Hillclimb series..

Image 1    Image 2     Image 3

My brake pads needed changing. I was quoted by 2 separate dealers nearly £150 for supply and fit of both front and rear! which i have to say seemed a bit steep. So I sent off to M&P for some EBC 'double H' sintered pads  for the front and kevlar for the back for the grand sum of £45. I wasn't sure how to fit them so i paid a mechanic friend £35 to fit them and   watched. I was amazed at how easy it was and chuffed at saving £70. Now I know how to do it, next time I'll save £105.

Just make sure of the left and right pads are on the correct side and be meticulous with your dis/re-assembly, remove the two bolts that holds the calliper on, with needle nose pliers take out the cotter pin and slide the round bar out that holds the pads in place, remove old pads, keep the thin metal plate that goes on the back of the
outside pad, checking the shape against the new ones so you don't get lost.

Clean up the callipers with anka de-manka then using the handle of the socket wrench or a big screw driver, lever and ease the round pistons back into the calliper, apply copper slip to the backs of the pads and on  the round bar that holds the pads in place, you don't need tons, making sure not to get ANY on the fronts of the pads or the disks.

Re assemble with the new pads and replace bar and cotter pin, clean up any wayward copper slip and replace calliper with a touch of slip on the bolts and do them up
tight!. Now do the other side and when finished extend the pistons by applying the brake a good few times! Don't forget to bed your new pads in.

I know it's an extremely important part of your bike so if your not confident or If your not sure get a mechanic to do the job for you and ask nicely if you can watch! with the money you save you could chuck an  extra £40 to it and go and buy a slip on silencer which is exactly what I did!

There is a yahoo club for the SV.

Go to http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/sv650rideouts

My name is MIchael and I am only 14 but I am so looking forward when I can get my lisence ( I already ride on the road to place close like friends houses on my Yamaha Enduro XT225). Well I was looking at you specs about performance and I have a question. It says 0-60 in 3.2 seconds. That is close to the performance of an R1. are those right? Is it quick to 60?

Do U have a SVS or just an SV? I want to know some info on this bike! I am looking at an R6 so which one? E mail me and I would appreciate it very much,

On the question of 0-60 then it's likely that the figure are correct, there's only so fast you can get away when you have one wheel at the back. It also depends on the rider , the conditions and the surface etc, etc....0-60 is fast whether it's a SV or most other bikes. I have an SVS. If you want to know some info then it's all here for you. Whether you choose an R6 or an SV depends on how wealthy you are, how much insurance you can afford and what you want from a bike. The question of experience and speed also spring to mind but i'm not here to lecture you about that.....you know what i mean...

Hello all, a small note for what its worth on the fidly bits I found whilst installaing a new ehaust on my SV650S.

I've fitted the Micron Exhaust today, it took me about 4 hours, in total. The midrange has improved as has the top end and the sound is very Ducati-esk. Micron claim that no adjustment to carburation is required, but you can if you want.

The installation went quite smoothly but there was more work than I realised. The side panels and seats have to be removed to get to the rear brake cylinder which is partly used to affix the exhaust mounting bracket. On removing the side panels I had to use an impact driver to unscrew the four crosshead rubber mounted bolts. These are very firmly fixed to the frame.

To remove the side panels don't forget the two small screws near each rear indicator. These prevent the panels from popping off the rubber mounts which are exposed when you take the rear grab rail off. The rear seat locking mechanism on the left hand side is the last bit of attachment between the bike and the left side panel. un-pop the cable mount and rotate through 180 degrees this then slides out and the panels can be put to one side.

Next having soaked all the mounting bolts with penetrating oil for at least 1 hour you can start loosening all the bolts. This does not apply to the join between the front pipe and the rear. I worked from the back of the bike forwards loosening but not removing the exhaust. Once all the bolts are loose, leaving the rearmost bolt at the tail end that the front two cylinder end nuts remove all the bolts in between. Then whilst supporting the exhaust with your foot remove the remaining bolts. The exhaust then after some rotating back and forth comes off as one unit.

Next remove the stud screws at the cylinder end, this is achieved by locking the two nuts removed back on themselves and then unscrewing each stud. Micron say that this is necessary because they will have been damaged during exhaust removal. In fact you remove them because you will not be able to fit the front section of the Micron system with them in place. I used lots of exhaust paste during assembly. The system is a very snug fit with the rear suspension units and when they say do not tighten until later follow their instructions. I found I had installed the front section hard up against the supension linkages. Dohh!

Basically assemble the rest of the exhaust unit "loosley". Then when complete from the right hand side of the bike get a willing assistant to pull the lower section of the exhaust away from the bike whilst you go around to the other side and tighten the bracket between the original stem pipe poking out of the rear cylinder and the Micron down tube. This rotates the pipes away from the swing arm and rear supension units. Quickly tighten the rest of the nuts and bolts before the exhaust sealent paste sets.
Then reassemble the rest of the bike. I used lock nut everywhere once I'd cleaned off the penetrating oil. Once complete get willing assistant back into the garage / workshop and fire it up. Wow! Smiles all round.

Go for a small ish bike run to check it out for leaks, sound, acceleration and hapiness factor.

Got the Micron Oval Alloy (Not for road use) down pipes and end can at the Scottish bike show for £250.00 inc delivery. Definately worth it.

I'd like to thank all the people who wrote encouraging me to do this by not telling me everything but describing the stub pipe used during this install, which remains from the original Susuki.

If I can do this anyone can.

Because of the hassle I had with Pyramid Spastics, sorry Plastics, my dealer, Rex Judd has a spare yellow undertray for a Suzuki SV650(S).

Only saying this 'cos they did an ace job on mine and it looks cool.Let me know if you're interested.

I have been watching this web page for approx one year now and would like to   congratulate you on creating a great site. I first saw the SV in an advert about a year ago and was immediately smitten, reading your site confirmed that this was the bike for me and I finally got a yellow SVS on March 1st, since then I have done about 900 miles all of them with a big grin.

Today I followed the How To on carb shimming posted by Brett (which incidentally was very good and much appreciated) and found that my 2000 SV does have slots in the needle, I take it this is one of modifications made to the 2000 models. I moved the E clip down one notch, this is about the equivalent of two thicknesses of the washer, is this likely to cause  any problems? The exhaust is still the stock system.

I have only been able to take the bike out for a short run but it still feels like there is a flat spot around 5000rpm, above this the bike seemed to pull much harder and I was having to change up much earlier than I have been used to.

Thanks for a great web-site.I have just sold my YZF750 and taken delivery of a 650sv-purchased from Carnells and it let me down after only half a mile.The fuel line was trapped under the tank- at least thats what they told me-so much for PDI!!

I am now very pleased with it apart from rough running between 3000 and 4000 revs which hopefully they will sort out at initial service. The bike feels very light after my YZF and I am sure we are going to get along fine. Keep up the good work.

Just a quick warning. By chance I contacted my dealer two day's ago, only to be told that my baby had been recalled. I had thought mine was a '99 model, and anyway was outside the ranges suggested (111100107354). So anyone out there who has not checked with their original dealer, I'd suggest you make a quick call. Not that bothered as dealer already has parts in, just a bit of a pain to have to go over to Germany for it to be done, but that's the price you pay when you live in UK, work in Holland and  import from Germany. It's an excuse to test the top end limit on the Autobahn as well (but only on the way back) not to mention have a beer(s).

Just to confirm that I contacted my dealer about my 99 model and was told that if my bike was in need of the fix then i would get an official letter. I haven't yet.

Yoshimura is showing frame protectors for the SV on their website now  www.yoshimura-rd.com. I can't remember if they are in the "products" section or "what's new section".

Just wandering if anyone would be interested in trading in their "black" rims for a set of silver ones from 99? I in Ontario Canada...

I have a 1999 sv650x 3,400 miles. About a week ago I noticed a crack in the rear tire (stock Metzeler(sp?)) about 2 inches down from the center on the face of the tire, not the sidewall. Crack is about an inch long, looks pretty deep, and does not appear to be from a road hazard. Tire did not burst and has plenty of tread left.

I took it to an authorized Suzuki dealer and they spoke to Suzuki who said it's covered under warranty. Suzuki has yet to look at the tire to determine the cause. Parts and labor would have totaled $212 US  dollars.

I installed a Givi E360 Topcase and Monorack on my SV yesterday and am happy with the results. No more wearing a backpack jammed with stuff for me anymore. Installation was easier than expected except for two minor problems -

#1 The four metal pieces which go inside the rear frame rails had to be filed to fit and

#2 The four little rubber pads on the base plate had to be removed because the case would not snap into place, even with two people pushing.

I considered the rack offered by Suzuki here in Canada which installs in the place of the grab rail. The benefit to this rack is ease of installation and removal (two bolts) but the downside is you have to buy a soft tail bag to be bungeed in place. I travel with luggage 90% of the time so the Givi with its locks and sturdiness was right for me but I would suggest the Suzuki rack to anyone who does not want to use the bungee rails under the seat for fear of scratching the tail bodywork. I still couldn't find a price for the Suzuki rack but my Givi with case and rack cost $279 Canadian. I tried to send pictures earlier but it didn't work. Any tips? (any error message?) Thanks to Kevin for the great site and the readers who have responded to my questions in the past.

I noted David's mail (dmingay@maritz.co.uk) and he has two identical problems to me:

1) The bike has now done 7000 miles and I'm proud of the fact I've kept the corrosion generally at bay (religiously wash it down after each run), excepting the fork legs. I've enclosed a couple of pictures and have sent an email to Dave to see if my examples are better/worse than his.

2) A number of people have had battery problems? I remember one contributor going through two under warranty? Mine won't hold enough charge to start the bike on choke after 3 days of inactivity! Until it goes in for the next service, I've invested in an Optimate battery conditioner. Excellent piece of kit, highly recommended. It comes with a cable that can be routed out from underneath the front seat and up under the back seat. Hurrah! No more fiddly operations of taking the battery off for a charge - just park the bike in the garage, remove the rear seat and hey presto - hook it up to the Optimate. Available from MPS, amongst others.

3) I enclose a couple of pics of a front fairing indicator mod I think works really well. Some "remodelling" of the indicator mounting lugs inside of the fairing is required, so don't think of fitting them if you ever want the standard indicators back on! You need to be mentally strong with a Stanley knife and/or junior hacksaw! Got these from MPS, and they are available in standard orange, white or smoked (which is what you see here). I'm dead chuffed, I think they look great. Anybody interested can email me, and I'll describe what needs to be done. It takes about 45 minutes to do the first one, and 30 for the second (once you have sussed out how to take the fairing panel off, and how much plastic to shave away).

The Micron system goes on at the weekend - can't wait after what I've seen posted on this site.

Looking forward to seeing a few people on May 14th.

I thought you might like a few pictures of my SV650 with Shark Skins and M4 high pipe.

Images --->     1sv650.jpg       2sv650.jpg        3sv650.jpg

I've had it corrected twive by ny dealer which I had to pay for as they (and presumably Suzuki) say that it's not a mechanical/design/warranty problem but a result of dirt / salt / crap of of the roads. Now it has started to stick again. I haven't seen a manual yet and I'm not especially mechanically orientated and yet I don't want to continuously have to have this job done at my expense.

Are there any mechanics out there who could offer some advice. Is it a simple operation to clean and relube? Could a novice undertake such a task? Advice and detailed instructions would be a life and wallet saver.

How old is your bike, not very old I bet. I don't get this problem and I ride mine all year round and it's over 12 months old. If it's happened again, after Suzuki have fixed it once, I think it unlikely just to be dirt, sounds like a problem somewhere. Be former with your dealer, tell them this is not a common problem (refer them here if you want) - anyway, if they fixed it then it shouldn't be causing a problem again so soon.

I need help !!

i've an bike crash with my sv & the front tubes are out. Nobody for the moment make it in france, only original but it cost too much..

Do you somebody who can sell one to me. ?  Only the front tubes are out, i've got the spare oil etc....

Thanks for your help, soon a tuning web site of mine .

You can have a look of my ex bike on http://waregh.free.fr    The sv will become a tuning one too..

In answer to your question, yes jack up plates move the footrests back and up about 20mm. I found that sometimes the riding position screamed out for a more flat across the tank position. They work ok, I have long levers for legs so was concerned that they may cramp me up, but I find them quite comfortable, and they are a lot cheaper that a full rearset.

Some info for you. Chad sent a message on the 14th asking about frame protectors. Well I have found some. I know the boy's on the SV650 mailing list have been playing around with some home made items, but I have  just received Demon Tweeks catalogue, (just down the road from you yep, Wrexham) www.demon-tweeks.co.uk. Don't know what they are like, and won't get a chance to order them as about to disappear for two weeks chasing the sun, but if anyone gets them, let us know what the score is. Anyway....

Crash Bung for SV650 - BSDCPSU003 at 35.00 GBP

Also on the subject of frame sliders this from Eric (eborch@vssad.hlo.dec.com)...thanks Eric...

Try these 2 sites:

http://www.inturace.com/default.htm
http://www.rammc.net/

They mention them for an SV, don't know if they're available yet or not. Good luck.

I have recieved your reply and seen the post on the list. But the photo you posted is of a U.K. model of bike ( factory fairing attached to the frame). The image I sent you is a very nice looking fairing for the naked version that we get here in the U.S.. This fairing I am asking about mounts to the forks somehow instead of to the frame like the factory fairing. In other words the headlight and fairing turn with the handlebars instead of facing straight all the time. 0svfairing.jpg

Dyno chart (M4 vs stock)

This is a dyno chart I picked up from M4 products comparing the gains with the pipe over stock. Note: This is compared as a straight bolt on. Shimming the needles will increase the curve in the lean area for more gains.     0sv650m4.jpg

Dyno chart (stock)

Here is the stock dyno chart I picked up somewhere, I think maybe sport twin.com? Notice the flat spot in torque and the change in slope of the horse power curve. This is for a stock bike.      0sv650stock.jpg

Can you please put a link to an SV650 message board I just created? www.InsideTheWeb.com/mbs.cgi/mb1031698

OK...done.

In answer to Kevin's question - Why would one want to shim the needles?

Answer:

The bike comes from the factory with a lean spot in the mid rpm range. Upon acceleration, you will notice it will pull hard from dead stop, it then backs off a little, and once past 5000-5500rpm it "power surges". Feels like someone kicked it in the rear and it takes off pulling hard again. This is because the carb set-up is not quite perfect. ( Yes, we are aware that our bike is a dream, but it's not quite perfection thanks to the bean counters at Suzuki!) Most needles on sport bikes have a few slots on the needles that allow you to move the clip up and down the needle for adjustment - the SV does not have this option. Hence adjustments require using shims (washers) of the necessary thickness to tune the needle.

So why shim the needles? To eliminate this lean spot in the power curve. Shimming the needles corrects the fuel mixture problem in this range, and does not effect the higher rpm band performance. Once the needles are shimmed, the bike will pull hard throughout the rpm range, bottom to rev limiter. The result is more power, quicker acceleration, and a tendency for the front wheel to become airborne on command in first with fast snap of the wrist to whack the throttle open. :) SHIMMING THE NEEDLES WILL IMPROVE THE POWER BAND OF THE STOCK SYSTEM AS WELL AS THOSE USING AN AFTERMARKET PIPE!!!! I have talked to some people who have shimmed the needles with the stock exhaust and noticed a night/day difference in performance. A less restrictive, lighter weight exhaust system will give you more horsepower gains through improved throughput. But note that while a pipe will raise the horsepower and enhance peaks in the power band, it will also exaggerate valleys to some degree. ( Thus a lean spot will be a little leaner.) Shimming the needles with the M4 will eliminate the occasional exhaust crackle encountered on throttle roll off with the pipe when it is used as a straight bolt on w/o needle adjustment. It will cure the lean surge, and give you extra power in the lower rpm range.

My person explanation for this lean spot is two fold, based on no concrete facts - just my intuition. In 6th gear at 65 mph the tach turns just under 5000rpm. ( Exactly 5000rpm at 70 mph for the 99 svx model) This lean spot may be engineered from the factory to help comply with California emissions regulations which if I'm not mistaken require emissions testing to not only pass idle, but pass the test at operating speeds. If the bike is lean, it's fuel "starved", burning less gas and producing less hydrocarbon emissions. My second view ( And probably the real reason) is that the needles are non-adjustable - AKA probably cheaper than ones with slots for adjustment. Since the SV was designed to be "most bang for the buck", while being affordable to the average Joe, it is possible that this was the result of a cost cutting corner. In other words, why pay "Xdollars" per unit for adjustable needles when we can put in "Y" and save some money off our cost! I know it sounds crazy, but for comparison I'll give you an example. I work for a large paint company in the states. ( I'm a chemist - which explains my need to drag things out in gross detail.) If you
develop a cheap contractor product to sell in the market, the margin for profit on such products is small compared to the cost of manufacture, so the more money you can save while meeting the required performance expected by the customer the better. ( More expensive lines offer the ability to be less cost conscious) So lets say you have one paint that has a material cost of $2.50 per gallon, and another that costs $2.51 per gallon.  You may think that is a small difference ( 1 penny!??!?) Well, if you sell 2 million units of that paint a year, then that penny has a net worth of $20,000!!!! See what I'm getting at here?

Anyway, the point is that shimming the needles will eliminate the lean spot in the Sv's power curve and give you better performance, both with an aftermarket pipe and with the stock system. Of course, you'll see more ponies with the less restrictive exhaust, not to mention that the exhaust note will become music to your ears, put an evil grin on your face, and make you feel like a "rebel without a cause."

Happy riding as spring is a week away!

Oh, I almost forgot. Moving the washer under the "e" clip cures the leanness of the SV's engine in the 4000-5500rpm range for free!!!! It will only cost you time and patience. Verses aftermarket jet kits that start at $80+, and require quite a bit of time to perfect. ( Trust me, been there and done that one with my last bike.) And if for some reason you don't like it ( Can't think of a reason why someone wouldn't), you can always move the washer back to where it was. After market jet kits often times require drilling and resizing of carburetor parts that are not reversible. ( Plus I have noticed no apparent impact on gas mileage with the shimmed needles, though I haven't run the bike to complete empty to thoroughly test this observation. :) )

Also this from Tom (tomctx@email.msn.com) in reply to my question...

Kevin, shimming the needles in the carbs richens the fuel mixture throughout the whole rev range. Carbs here in the U.S. have a lean mixture to pass EPA controls and tests. An aftermarket, freer flowing exhaust leans the mixtire even more. Enrichening the fuel flow allows better performance and drivability. This is just a thumbnail, a complete dissertation on fuel could take volumes. Probably several other people are mailing you the same thing, so, ta ta for now.

Also in relation to the shimming post an email from Roger (GrowRH@LOUISVILLE.STORTEK.COM)...

Let me start by saying WOW! Great job with the post (Brett), thanks.  Like all the armchair experts of the world I have a couple of comments for you.

1. If you replace the Phillips (cross head) screws with Allen (internal hex) screws while you're doing a mod like this it will make it easier next time (old dirt bike trick).
Float bowl screws too, while you're in there. A ball end Allen wrench  will even allow you to attack the new screws from an angle next time too.

2. Anti-seize compound on the screws (especially airbox screws) will eliminate future problems as well.

3. I would guess the washer is above the e-clip to keep the spring from working past or binding on the e-clip. Personally, I would add a new washer/shim to the stack to
avoid potential problems in this area.

I came across your wonderful site and sparked my interest.

Just got my motorcycle permit yesterday. I've started looking for a bike and I came across the Suzuki SV650 and immediately fell in love with it. It seems like the SV650 is a cross between a Harley and Honda CBR. (a cross between what??!! how can Harley be mentioned in the same sentence..?)

What category does the SV650 fall under? I've seen pictures of riders with full racing suits instead of jeans and leather jacket. The SV is not a cruiser, it's a Sport v-twin. I've never seen anyone in the UK ride one without decent protective gear and it might be good to pose for a short while but the SV cries out to be ridden hard. 

I'm looking for a street bike such as the Suzuki Katana 600. How is the Katana different for the SV650 besides price? Not sure...

Would you recommend the SV650 for a beginner? Yes, cheap, quick, easy to ride, low seat height...

Has anyone heard of an after market air filter for the SV? I'm sure I've seen them before, but now that I'm looking, I can't find one, and my dealer says that K&N does not have one out yet, and won't for some time. Any suggestions/web pages would be greatly appreciated.

As I have had a flood of emails concerning this issue, I have decided to write one email for all to share. I see that I have sparked new interest in the M4 pipe, think they will give me commission? Tell 'em Brett sent ya! :) (and if you buy an SV tell 'em I sent you...but it won't do me any good!)

Okay, here it is. ( If I forget anything, please let me know as it is a little late tonight.)

Start by removing the seat - this allows the tank to prop up easily. Remove the small allen screws on the side cover plates under the seat, then the larger allen bolts that hold the seat on. Seat should be removed by sliding it toward the tank and lifting up the front.

Next, remove the two allen screws that attach the tank in the front by the forks. Use the prop supplied with the bike ( In the rear storage compartment for you new owners) and prop up the tank. You'll now see the massive air box.

NOTE: While you have the tank propped up, now is a good time to address that "water in the tank" cure. ( See Kevin's/Ian's postings on the fix. ( Yes, I did that too. :) )

Start by finding the phillips screws that are part of the airbox clamps that clamp it to the carbs. ( Rear one is on the right, front on the left side if sitting on the bike if memory serves.) Get some "liquid wrench" machine oil and put a few drops on the threads of these screws. They are VERY stubborn and this overcomes this problem. Let the oil soak in for 15 minutes or so. ( Go get a drink and check your messages.)

Next, use a phillips head screw driver and loosen the screws. Be careful not to strip the heads, apply steady firm pressure. They'll give in eventually if you are patient. ( Note, if you can't remove them, email me and I'll explain an alternate method to get around this problem. Suzuki has a fail safe in the event that the screws are "frozen")

Once the screws are loose, locate the crank case breather hose on the left side of the bike. It attaches to the air box on the left rear side. Remove the hose and lift the air box off the carbs. The drain hose for the box is long and hangs down the center. If there is a little resistance to lifting off the box, this tube is probably meeting some resistance. Find it and wiggle it while pulling the air box up, this will allow removal.

You are now looking at the two carbs. At this time, use some aluminum foil and cover the inlets for now. ( Keep dirt out of it.)

Next, dismount the horn from the frame in the front and move it out of the way. ( 1 bolt 10mm) Now loosen the radiator. There are 4 bolts that hold it on. ( Two bottom, two top. 10 mm) This is necessary to keep from having to disconnect the throttle cables. After the radiator is movable, remove the mounting bolts for the fan assembly. There are I believe three of them, two bottom, one top. The top one is accessible via the interior near the carbs. ( Will have to use a 10 mm wrench due to space constraints.)

Now that all that business is loose and "mobile" slide the fan assembly over toward the right side of the bike, enough to get it out of the way, but don't damage the radiator fins.

Remember that "liquid wrench" you used before? Put some on the clamp screws that attach the carbs to the intake of the heads. You'll need a long phillips screw driver to eventually loosen the front clamp. The screw head faces the right side of the bike. Walk over to that side and look in the lower area of the carb and you will see it hiding in the recesses of the interior. The rear carb clamp screw faces I think the left side of the bike, and is easily seen. ( Don't worry, these screws are easier to turn than the ones for the air box.)

Loosen the clamp screws and carefully lift the carb assembly up. It will easily pull off the intake pipes. It is now somewhat moveable / loose.

FOR THE FOLLOWING, GET A LARGE CLEAN PAN / BOWL AND PUT A PAPER TOWEL IN IT!!!!!!!!! ( Trust me...)

It might be a wise time to recommend going to the hardware store if you do not have the next item. Since the front vacuum cover is difficult to take off given the limited space to get a screw driver in to unscrew the mounting screws, I used the phillips head tip to my black and decker screw gun in combination with an 8 mm wrench to form a 90 degree phillips head screw driver! ( Yeah, I've watched shade tree mechanic...) The screw gun tips can be bought at a hardware store for a couple bucks. I recommend the ones that have about a 1 inch shaft on them, they seem to work nicely.

Now with you new ( Maybe even patentable?) screwdriver "wrench", locate the two screws that mount the vacuum cover/plate. One is on the bottom right, the other at the top left. Apply gentle steady pressure - they will eventually loosen. I recommend starting with the bottom one, then removing the top one last, as the vacuum plate has a weak spring inside.

Placing your free hand on the cover to hold it down, remove the top screw. ( Put both screws in your paper towel lined pan.) Gently ease off the pressure and allow the vacuum cover to be removed. Place the cover and spring in your "parts bowel".

Next, gently grab the rubber diaphragm and pull it. It will easily unseat and the slider will begin to slide out with the diaphragm. (Forgive me I can't spell!) (luks OK ot me...) Carefully pull out the slider/needle/diaphragm assembly and put it in the "parts bowel"

Looking inside the rubber diaphragm, you'll see a plastic tab. Grab the plastic slider with one hand, then with a pair of needle nose pliers in the other, gently grab the end of this tab and pull on it with a slight twisting motion. * Careful, there is a small spring that can pop out if you do this too abruptly - easy is the message.

Put the tab and spring in the parts bowel, then turn the slider upside down - the needle, washer, (and spring If not removed with the tab) will fall out.

With your needle nose pliers, GENTLY grab the blunt (non tapered) end of the needle and with your other hand pull on the plastic spacer under the e clip. May have to use your finger nails to get under it and pull it off. Once removed, take that metal washer and put it under the e clip, then replace the plastic spacer on top of it. ( You'll note that this washer WAS on top of the e clip when you pulled out the needle from the slider, it's now under it.)

Drop the needle back into the slider. Put the small spring on the nub of the plastic tab, then with the needle nose pliers, replace the tab in the slider, pushing with a gentle twisting motion. You'll feel the tab seat into place.

Now take off the aluminum foil on top of the front carb. Re-insert the slider back into the carb, making sure to guide the needle into its hole by looking into the carb. The rubber diaphragm has a small rubber ring on the side of it that lines up with a small peg on the bottom right of the carb.  Make sure the diaphragm is properly seated into the carb lip with you fingers. ( It will seat flush in the lip of the opening on the carb.)

Take the long spring and vacuum cover, place the spring back into the carb ( It goes in the center of the slider assembly.) and place the cover on the carb. Make sure it is seated properly. ( Note: Replace the vacuum cover/plate and the long spring together as one piece.) Mount the vacuum cover with the mounting screws and tighten snug - but don't torque them down real hard. You want it snug so that it seals.

THE FRONT CARB IS NOW SHIMMED!

Now do the same to the rear carb in the same fashion - this should take you 2 minutes as you are now a pro and the rear one is more accessible.

ONCE THE CARBS ARE SHIMMED:

Remount the fan to the radiator
Remount the carbs onto the inlet pipes and tighten the clamps
Remount the radiator
Remount the horn

Use a paper towel and wipe the top intake area of each carb to remove any contamination ( dust, etc... don't let any dirt fall into the carbs!) Use another paper towel and wipe the attaching area on the air box. ( You may also want to remove the air filter at this time and clean it according to the owners manual while you're at it.)

Replace the air box onto the carbs, be sure to get a snug uniform fit all the way around. You may have to wiggle the air box and use a small flat head screw driver to make sure the lip seals all the way around. ( Be gentle with the screw driver, don't mak the carb surface or the rubber surface.) Once you are convinced you have a good fit, tighten the clamps that hold the air box onto the carbs. Frequently inspect as you tighten to make sure you have a seal all the way around and that it didn't pop up. ( It took me three attempts before I got it right.) Might want to try one at a time if doing both at once proves unsuccessful.

Once the air box is mounted, re-attach the breather hose for the crankcase. Make sure you have all your tools and have no "extra" parts, then lower the tank and bolt it back onto the frame. Replace the seat, bolt it down and you're done. ( The seat may be challenging to put back on, be patient and start both bolts at the same time. The seat is a snug fit so be patient is a virtue.)

You have now completed the carb shimming. Start the bike in the normal manner, allow it to warm up. Strap on your gear and hold on!

Hope this helps, any questions email me at Bretbeau@westol.com

Here's some really stupid questions (I'm good at them)...why would I want to shim?  what advantage and disadvantages are there? is it only required following an exhaust mod?

Disclaimer: As always, it is ultimately the owners decision to "modify" his/her bike. I submit this modification under the blanket of Kevin's website policy (top of main page) that states that liability is solely that of the owners and no one elses. (well said Brett but you all knew this anyway didn't you......and if you didn't you do now...)

An update on the electrical problem I had on my SV650SX.

Took it into the dealers (Premier Motorcycles - West Wickham London, UK - I thoroughly recommend them) for them to have a look at it. Explained the problem and the mechanic knew immediately what the problem was/is.

The solenoid takes a feed from the battery and then feeds electrical equipment including the fuses. The positive connection in the terminal block which feeds these fuses had started to corrode (a problem known with other Suzuki's such as the GSX600). Hence every now and then contact would be broken and all electrics supplied from the fuses would go off.

The mechanic reckons that some of this could be down to the extra current being drawn due to having heated grips fitted. (by themselves!) I wouldnt mind but I have hardly used the grips. However, there is an easy fix by taking this supply from elsewhere and fusing it separately. If you have a similar problem, take it to your garage and get it fixed under warrantee.

Took my SV back to the dealers (M/City Fanborough) to show them corrosion on the lower laquered alloy fork legs. Good news - they took photos and bike details to submit a warranty claim to Suzuki. I'll have to wait a couple of weeks or so before I hear anything, but with any luck I'll have some shiney new forks in time for summer.

Thanks to the people who responded by the way!

I have had my 2000 model blue SV650S for a couple of months now and really like the handling and torque. I have not had any problems until last sunday when the fuel
warning light came on unexpectedly (I had only done 50 miles since the last fill up). Anyway I filled up again and the light carried on flashing, obviously it is broken.

I will put some tape over it until the next service as the light is really annoying and I don't need it anyway, but I wondered if anybody else has experienced it or has any idea how I can fix it as I don't like other people working on my baby.

Re: Johns fork problem. Changing the fork oil helps a lot on smooth surfaces, but due to the poor design of the forks, when the surface is bumpy or you hit a stone or similar, the forks cannot react quickly enough and the SV will shake its head (although the design of the bike is good enough so that it will get back in shape fairly quickly it still causes damage to  your underwear).

If you mainly do B road riding or the roads are in bad condition in your area you are better off with the standard oil UNLESS you can get your forks sorted properly. The cheapest way to do this that I have  heard of is to fit some 'Valve Emulators' from a company in the States called  Racetech. This will allow the forks to cope with bumps etc. properly - so you don't get the front end diving under braking and you don't get headshakes over rough surfaces.

I have not tried them myself (although I may do soon) but a lot of people on the SV mailing lists have and swear by them.

P.S. Kev - the link for Racetech has too many full stops between www and race-tech. (thanks Jock, this is corrected now.)

I've just bought the Micron "race" exhaust system for my SVS. Well its on its way and I was wondering now having looked at the bike with fresh eyes, how much of the bike do you have to take apart to remove the original exhaust from the rear cylinder? Has any one done this before? Can't say I have, but the bolts on the rear exhaust mounting look realy awkward to get at.

Bits to remove, tools to use, advice like that would be apreciated.

I thought I would let you know my experiences with the official Suzuki lower fairing.

I ordered one at the beginning of March for my blue 2000 model SV650S. It only took the dealer 6 days to get it!

I fitted it Saturday and didn't really have any problems at all. The instructions were simple and I completed the job in about 2 hours.

I think it looks great and the colour match is perfect. The only slight niggle I have is that I can't seem to get the gap between the upper and lower fairing the same both sides, but I didn't really try very hard as the weather was great and I wanted to get out on it.

Also I fitted a PowerBronze hugger recently. This was a bit trickier than I expected. You have to fit a bracket on the right hand swing arm using the existing bolt that holds the break pipe in place. I managed to fit the bracket but fitting the hugger to it was difficult because you can't get your fingers between the hugger and the wheel to get the nuts on. I ended up taking the bracket off and fixing it to the hugger first and then connecting it to the swing arm.

I had the same problem as in a previous mail where the hugger is impeded by the built in muck protector, but it only deforms the hugger slightly so I didn't need to take it off.

Acording to my newly delivered M&P catalogue:

Front Left EBC 4229 or LMP 305 SF
Front Right EBC 4231 or LMP 304 SF
Rear EBC 4063 or LMP 156 SR

For what it’s worth, here are my comments in response to John Goss’ message about fork oil changes.

Yes, the point for changing fork oil is to change handling. Whether this upsets handling depends on many factors. I would venture to say that the conditions that upset the handling on his SV in the two incidents he described were slightly different than other occasions when the handling hadn’t been upset. Things that make the handling “stiffer” are heavier weight fork oil, colder weather, different tires/air pressure, greater quantities of fork oil, … among other things. I would guess that the Suzuki factory settled on 10W fork oil as compromises between handling and comfort, and cold weather or hot weather riding.

If you regularly ride in cold weather and on rough roads, I would stick with the lighter weight oil, especially if you are not particularly heavy. Personally I don’t trust most of the mechanics in the bike shops to put the correct amount of oil in the forks, since draining out all of the old oil requires letting them sit for a bit before refilling them. If
they weren’t allowed to drain properly, then were refilled with the standard amount of oil, they would be overfilled.

I have been using 15W oil in the forks of my SV, my riding weight is 205lbs. plus clothing, I ride regularly on rough roads, and the temperatures vary between 30ºF and 70ºF so far this year, and though the ride is rough on colder days, I have not experienced a loss of control other than for tires sliding. If you are going to ride “on the edge”, some fine-tuning is needed to find just the right mix; and then it will be different on different roads at different temperatures. Good luck.

Also I would like to say that I like the Metzler tires. I have found them to give good control in a wide variety of conditions. But then I have only used them for about 700 mi. so far.

This is a wonderful motorcycle; I love how it corners. Oh yes, and the motor ain’t half bad! No problems to report yet. (nice one!)

Just to let you know, the Swona Exhaust site is now back online. The   new URL is www.swona-gp.co.uk

There are still pictures of a couple of SV's that have been done  complete with Dyno graphs and sound samples.

I am interested in mounting frame sliders to my '99 SV650S.

My Suzuki dealer did not know the mounting location or where to find sliders for the SV. He has sliders for GSXR600s and 750s but did not know if they would fit. Please e-mail at tia@nb.aibn.com if you can offer any advice. (copy the email to me as well please...)

For those in the U.K who have had a "slight accident" here's a useful link; rsbikepaint.co.uk. They supply off the shelf any colour of any motorbike. The paint (SV650 pearl canyon yellow in this case) arrived 2 days after I called them.

Just to add a note of caution for all those people rushing out to change their Falk oil. Changing your fork oil for thinker oil can dramatically change the way your bike handles and behaves.

Yes I know before you start saying "Ah but that is the whole point", I have had two major brown trouser moments since changing my fork oil. Last week I took my bike in to have it's 4,000 mile service and while it was in I asked them to up the oil from 10w to 15w in the forks as this was what everybody seemed to be doing. Initially I was very happy, the bike seemed a lot firmer all round and didn't dive so much on breaking, great.

Later that week while riding a stretch of road I know quite well I had a "Moment". I hit a bump on a fast sweeping corner which I must have hit before, but this time the front end lifted and I can only describe the result as a tank slapper. I managed to wrestle the bike back under control before I crossed the white line and sit it back over again to finish of the corner. On the same road a little further on (and a few miles and hour slower) I hit a stone (which can't have been that big as I didn't see it) while cornering. And again I had to fight very hard to keep from losing the front end as it bucked and tossed in my hands.

My riding is some what subdued at the moment, as I have lost all faith in the bike. I hope I can over come this as I think the bike is great and with summer on it's way I am going to be very upset if I don't want to ride my bike because I spent £30 pound of getting the fork oil changed.

Has anybody else had any problems ?, was it just a bad day ? or perhaps Suzuki put that thickness of oil in the fork's for a very good reason ?.

Nice site. Being the only SV650X owner in Malta, I found it very helpful and informative. You also helped me decide on buying such a great bike. It's not only my first bike but I also learned to ride on it.

I'd like to change the rear & front brake pads. I was wondering if  anybody with the service manual could specify the above item's OEM part numbers & manufacturer.

Just a quick warning to anyone who buy's Jack-up plates for their baby. I ordered some and duly received them. Had them sent to my UK address and brought them over to Holland with me. Started to fit them, it  seemed an easy job. Screwed in the top bolt, but the bottom one would not fit.

Possibly because I was tired, I managed to cross thread the bolt in the frame. I then measured the distance between the to holes on the plate   and the ones on the rearset. The jack-up plates were a couple of mil out. Quick butchering with a file sorted this, but left me with one hole on my  frame with a cross thread. I now have to re-tap the hole at some stage. Moral of the story...

1. Don't work on your machine late at night after flying in.
2. Check any bits first to see if they fit.

Oh and it looks like my hugger has finally turned up (after a two month wait). I pick it up in UK on Monday. Must be a lot of people wanting these, as the guys at M & P advised that they could not keep up with demand.

I keep seeing vague references to a recall for the SV, but no mention of what was affected, or what model #'s were in the recall. As per most, I don't feel I can trust my dealer to look after my baby's best interest  here, so any feedback would be greatly appreciated. BTW... I have a 99 SV650X. (you will be OK then, it is year 2000 models that are affected and from what I can tell when I asked my dealer if you're affected Suzuki will write to you. If I had a 2000 model SV and no letter from Suzuki I'd still chase it with them...)

See Feb posting here for 'official' wording and then numerous posts in the Feb archive as a follow on...

I am trying to find the manufacturer or some information on a fairing that I have seen a picture of. I tried to E-Mail the person who submitted the picture but the address is no longer active. If anyone has any info I would be thankful. (Is this the right Image Kent?)

Well, there was a break in the weather and I did the needle shimming by moving the washer under the "E" clip. All I can say is I've never been happier with a pipe and jet job!

The straight bolt on of the M4 not only made my SV sound like a ducatti, but gave me a surprise when I blipped the throttle in an intersection down town. I must have given the citizens a nice show. :) Then I shimmed the needles last week - all lean spots on the rpm band are gone! Pulls super strong from bottom to top. I must say that wheelies are no problem, in fact I find myself being conscious to try and avoid pulling the front end up on hard acceleration. Bike runs like a dream and doesn't skip a beat.

The fit of the pipe is perfect. ( Must make sure your clamps are tightened to specs and aren't meeting over any tube slots to avoid leaks.) Well worth the money. I got mine for $450 US from a dealer in Beaver falls Pa just outside of Pittsburgh. ( Saw it a little cheaper on the net for those comfortable with that route.) But for those looking
for great performance gains, good looks, and easy "rejetting" this is the way to go hands down.

M4 has changed their instructions to read "shim needles 0.020 and turn the pilot screws 3 turns out." My SV, being unfaired and the carbs stamped with "F2" means that the factory preset is 2 1/2 turns out. I have not messed with the pilot screws, and probably won't at this point as I am content with it the way it is now. Guy at M4 told me that the new recommended set up using the stock hardware gave the best performance results over aftermarket jet kits. * Better dyno numbers and track runs.

Happy riding as spring is less than a month away!

I was jumping with joy when I saw the fairing Powerbronze offered for the SVS, thinking "Bugger me, but I want to import that". Probably some dumb colonial idea of mine now I look at it. Thought it would be simple I did. pffft. After getting vague and vaguer emails from Powerbronze ( sorry guys, but your correspondence is lousy) I've decided to look elsewhere for the finishing touches to the vtwin beastie.

Any Australian's who've looked into it, or any Brit's who   are in the know, please e-mail and point me in the right direction. I'm particularly keen to find out more about the "Suzuki Accessories catalogue", but my dealer (who's pretty damn good) says their's bollocks all in it (different one maybe). So on that note, thanks in advance, and here's to hoping this bloody summer rain passes by soon, I'm sick of feeling like a drowned rat.

Hiya, is anyone going to the Scottish bike show in Edinburgh? it would be an ideal opportunity for all the Scots SV riders that can't make it down south to meet up and bitch about water in their fuel tanks.

If anybody is going I'll see them there, email me and I can arrange to meet them on either the Saturday or Sunday.

Oh and all those who asked for the Easy access jump start and trickle charge box instructions THEY ARE ON THEIR WAY TO THOSE WHO EMAILED ME ABOUT THEM!

Can you give me some phone numbers of Suzuki dealers in the U.K.? I want to call them and ask if they carry the tinted version of the flyscreen I was inquiring about when I wrote in on Feb. 11th.

Any help will be appreciated. I'm ready to try one but want to know what my options are if any. (see http://www.suzuki2.co.uk/fueldeal.html for listings)

I have fitted an MPS (NWS) Hugger,without problem. The bolt that is giving "ddeans" hassle is if my memory serves me correctly, is 10mm. and is best removed using a longish BOX spanner, as the channel that it sits in is very narrow. Box Spanners are relatively cheap and are also useful to remove the front mudguard (fender) on the SV as well. but first check your SV tool kit as there might be one supplied.

Also, this on the subject from Russell (Russell@gladwish.fsnet.co.uk)...

I had the same problem with thr "crap deflector". I can be got at with a 1/4" drive 10mm socket on a short extension bar. It's fiddly but it works.

And finally for today this from Gustaf (Gustaf.Nygren@swipnet.se)...

Some tips for David, I had to change the mud guard (no, I don't want to tell you why...), I used a 1/4 socket set with a ~4 inch extension and a socket - I can't remember if it was 8, 9 or 10 mm. The bolt is located in the middle of the mud guard in the groove accessible from the top.

I'm a Brit here in Germany and a tip for those of you looking for bargain SV's.

Just picked up my new (second hand 04.99) mint condition black SV650S with 2000km on the clock for just under 2,800 pounds or a meer 9000 deutschmarks. Must admit found it by luck as the guy selling it was forced to due to unforseen medical mishap. Now I'm going to purchase some lowers as the americans call them; which should give them that extra sharp look.........

As many have said before me......this is a great site and a godsend for those like me (Momentarily non mechanically minded) but willing.........

I had a problem with the neutral light staying on all the time - it was caused by a short on one of the connectors behind the fairing. Water dripping down the wires had corroded the copper connectors and then the green stuff (verdigras?) had formed a short outside the connector block.

After 3 days in carnells they failed to spot this (w@$$%£s!) and instead came up with a story about fitting a diode in the alarm wires. The light came back on about 2 miles later!

Anyway, back to the point, it sounds like David has an SVS so he may be having the same problem but with a different connector - perhaps the one from the ignition switch? If he cannot find it easily he should get it fixed under warranty as even Suzuki couldn't call this a standard feature (could they?) (no, I hope not...)

After a week in the shop, I can now collect my SV. - Was pulling out of a junction and it just cut-out, restarted but wouldn't rev above 2000. Tried to get going but had to abandon even after pulling the plugs and checking around (great toolkit !). Final result: water in tank.

After believing I was suffering carb icing problems it was probably just a build-up of water occuring. the run out tube from the tank is long. Be warned. (try injecting a steam of water down your run-off pipe from the fuel filler cap to see if it's blocked - but be careful and don't get it in the juice! If it is kinked see Ian's instructions...)

I would like to change the front springs of my fork. A friend of mine porpoused me the hyperpro ones. What do u think? which r the best ones?

Just a quick contribution on wheelies.

As I understand it, the semi fared SV650 has higher gearing which makes it harder to wheelie on the power. (I hate doing it on the clutch as this shags it out much quicker!) Anyway, after much experimenting, I have found a really easy way to do this. (I'm talking about a bog standard SV650SX UK version here) Just accelerate in first gear up to about 6000rpm then shut the throttle off completely. As the rev counter drops to 5000rpm crack the throttle open and hey presto! You can then ride the wheelie all the way through first gear to the rev limiter, which brings the front wheel down nice and gently. (Not managed to get it into second yet)

Now onto my real reason for e-mailing you. Has anyone had electrical problems on the SV which causes the electrics and hence the engine to flicker on and off (about 5 times a second) until the bike stops ? I have had it twice, once after a long wet ride, and yesterday after a few nice and dry days. (So not water related) When it happens, the entire electrics go dead, including the lights. Then after a bit they come back on and no problems for a couple of months.

Luckily when it happened to me yesterday, another biker in his car stopped and he had a tool kit with voltmeter. We quickly acertained that although the battery was fully charged, there was no power on any of the fuses. Hence we then checked out the solenoid which did have power.  After 30 minutes scratching our heads, power suddenly came back on. Since then no problems. Could this be an electrical problem to earth ?

Any ideas would be welcome.

If anyone goes for the MPS (UK) rear hugger, bewarned, there is nothing that can be otherwise called a "crap deflector" bolted on to the rear of the swinging arm of the 99 SV. This can cause problems with fitting a rear hugger, as it pressess up againgst the rear of the hugger, and if you have an ABS hugger, it can deform it.

There is a bolt that keeps the deflector connected to the swinging arm, but you cannot see it, nor can you get to it with a spanner or a socket.

If anyone has come up aginst this, and has sorted the problem out, or can give me the size of the bolt and some tips on how to get to it, can they let me know

As for jump starting the SV I found it a real it a real pain, so, a little trip to Maplins A pvc box, two 30amp rated terminals, 50cm of red and black 30amp cable and
some silicon later, I have under my pillion seat a box that is water tight and allows easy trickle charging or jump starting access is available, much easier and
much quicker than all that panel removing! If anyone wants the part numbers and very simple instructions give me an email on either mysticmak@tinyonline.co.uk or mysticmak@btinternet.com

In agrreance with Bernard, I have also felt for some time that the clunking is coming from the headstock/stem.

I recently purchased an official Suzuki workshop manual and was disappointed to have the rumour of  "ball-race" bearings confirmed. I believe that the clunking would disappear if the bearings (upper/lower and inner/outer) were replaced with tapered roller bearings as are used in most motorcycles. Pushbikes (bicycles) use ball-race bearings in the headstem and I doubt if they are truly up to the task in an SV. Particularly one that is used on rough roads or wheelied a bit.

In case you don't have your own manual, the book says to tighten the headstem to 32.5 lb-ft (45Nm) and then after moving the lower triple clamp (fork bracket Suzi call it) from lock to lock 5 or six times to then back the headstem off 1/4 to 1/2 turns to obtain correct resistance. No wonder they clunk, they are loose. If tapered roller bearings were used they could be torqued up to about 10 lb-ft and left tight.

My SV was 12 days old with 300 miles when it was reversed into causing £1500 damage. Got all the details so it isn't a problem. this got me thinking about eventually dropping yje bile and paying for the damage,

Does anyone have any ideas or knowledge of Magic Mushrooms or similar plastic bodywork protectors.

I'm also looking for a good performing/sounding end can. Any suggestions?

In order to prevent useful resource sites such as this from becoming swamped with messages relating to rideouts, I have created a new site specifically for this purpose at http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/sv650rideouts

Please stop by if you're interested in getting together for a blast with fellow SV owners. Discuss dates and times in the message section, enter confirmed dates on the calendar for at-a-glance viewing and maybe even post your routes in the photos section.

I hope this will prove a useful site for those of us who want to meet up now the weather's getting better, and it should keep us out of the hair of those who only want to read about problems and modifications and stuff.

But it will only work if people use it, so let's give it a try. To kick things off, I've suggested a meeting for those in the London area on March 5th, it's open for discussion on the site.

The time has come to sell my bike:

black '99 'T' reg. (1 year old)
SV650S
9000 miles
full dealer service history
datatag & Datatol Veto plus alarm/immobiliser
Powerbronze double bubble screen & hugger (+ original screen & chain guard)
fenda extenda
fairing slightly scratched on l/h side around SV650S decal
£3700
location: South London (UK)

The best thing that I've found is a bucket of hot water and a good dose of washing up liquid. Then take a scrubbing brush and go all the way round each tyre two or three times, to make sure that you haven't missed any.

Now get your hosepipe or pressure washer (low pressure setting) and make sure that you get all the soap off. Wheel the bike around a bit so that the wheels have chance to turn and drain properly. Then hose it all off again. You've got to be thorough, because washing up liquid has salt in it and if you leave any on the bike, then it'll start to corrode (even worse that just the winter weather).

After that lot, you'd be best to lube the chain as well.

Washing up liquid is designed for de-greasing frying pans, so a bit of tyre lubricant is easily despatched. Still be a bit careful for the first few miles, do them in the dry if at all possible.

as reported previous, i changed the fork oil for 20wt. the bike dived less and handles better.but because there is more resistance from the forks, the clunk has got
worse, after much riding around with no helmet on i feel the fault may lie in the head stock.

20 years as a engineer and many spent racing lead me to this, so when i get time i plan to strip down and rebuild and will post my findings. (please do..)

Have noticed a lot of comments about wheelying the SV & whether this will hurt it. Here's an answer, of sorts:

Power wheelies (can't hardly avoid'em on the SV! :-D ) aren't likely to cause your Bike any harm, provided you don't lose it over a wet patch or something. Did you ever wonder why professional stunt riders use Harley Sportsters so much? It's because they've got a dry-sump design, w/ the oil pickup @ the rear of the case. Balance-point wheelies don't cause the engine much distress.

The SV isn't a good choice for extended balance-point wheelies, as it's a wet-sump design (which usually have central pickups. With the oil filter hangin' off the front of the
engine, it's a fair bet the SV's pickup is somewhat forward of center...)

Yes, the occasional quick wheely shouldn't be a problem, but remember to make it brief.

Thanks for the note. Standox took a panel from my SV650Sx to Spain!! and made up some expensive paint - £25 for 100 ml. B..... hell! When the paint shop sprayed it they found it too thin, too pale, and too pearly so that was a waste of time, three weeks to be exact. The damage was very superficial so the whole issue is turning into a farce. They are going to try again.

After two months of waiting I finally got my new blue SV!!!!! I live in the states so it is the naked version.

Few details I noticed:

- the bike comes with factory installed chain guard that has the label with the tire pressure recommendations on it. I thought that there was no chain guard at all on the '99 model. Not sure here. (yes there is...with tyre pressures on it...)

- the wheels ARE BLACKISH DARK BROWN instead of silver. I like the silver ones better but those are nice too.

- the first impression is unforgettable: Suzuki really did an outstanding design job.

Where I can buy fender extender in US, I can ? and what is the website of the makers of the Targa quarter fairings? I definitely need those two.

Now I have to take the baby through the break-in period. But those are sweet sorrows :-))

If you can help with the above questions drop an email in...

I'm looking for a bolt-on exhaust system for the SV650S that does not cost me the full salary. I've got the '99 model (no difference to 2000?) and in Sweden it would cost me approximately 600 english pound to get a fair exhaust. Anyone got a suggestion what to do (without cutting the pipes off) ?

Is anyone going to the Ride-out from Central Scotland? If so how about a massed(?) Ride-Down? Anyone interested?

SV650, Yellow, 3200 miles UK bike excellent condition. Includes Novo Minimax tinted screen, hugger and bellypan. Also includes underseat tray but not yet
fitted. carbon kevlar tank protector. First to see will buy at £2995 so hurry !! Tel: 07771 802132 0r email patkin@globalnet.co.uk

...isn't as cumbersome as it seems. You can either strip half your  bike to get to the battery, just to find out the battery terminals are too small for ordinary clamps. Or you can jump-start the engine by bypassing the starterswitch and starting directly through the starter-engine.

Pull the black rubber cover from the power connector on the starter engine and put on the + clamp (an ordinary one will do). Tap the - clamp on (a metal part of) the engine casing, and your engine will start... hopefully; don't forget the choke when it's cold! (it took me 1 AA-man to find this out :))

Also on the subject as I said I could jump start my SV....this from John (john.starns@framestore.co.uk)...

Just to let you know it is possible to push start an SV! I have had two batteries replaced under warranty (the first dumped acid all over the swing arm which also had to be replaced under warranty) and so am experienced in the art of bump starting. Second gear is probably best, a long steep hill is less painful, but it can be done!

You posted my mail of 15/2 about my wrecked SV, many thanks. I had a few enquiries, however our external e-mail system went on the blink shortly afterwards and we only got back online last week so there may well be several  people who have tried to get hold of me but whose messages are now bouncing around cyberspace for all eternity. Unfortunately the insurance company has  now reclassified the wreck so I cannot purchase the salvage. However, I thought this may be of some use to other riders who may be looking for parts.

Motor insurers have contracts with salvage companies for write offs etc. This is why they can write vehicles off when repair costs reach around 75% of the vehicle replacement cost, as they are able to sell the damaged vehicle on to recoup the difference. The Suzuki insurance scheme is operated by Hill House Hammond and it's reasonable to assume that they insure plenty of Suzukis,  including SVs.

The insurance company is Norwich Union and they have a contract with Universal Salvage (Tel 01234 766500). It is probably also reasonable to assume therefore that they have a decent supply of salvaged Suzuki parts (they have at least one yellow S model, salvage ref number 819335, which I expect is being broken up as I type) and may well be worth contacting for used spares.

By the way, I'm now looking to buy a used S model as soon as the insurance cheque clears. If anyone is selling theirs, please feel free to get in touch.

Thanks for all the work you put in to this excellent site.  All of the SV owners and other interested parties of the world are in your debt. Unfortunately I'm still only in
the interested parties category as my budget can't quite stretch to an SV yet but I will definitely be looking for one in a few years when something new and better comes out and everyone forgets how great SV's are and they are available cheaper used. I currently ride a GS450.

I've been occasionally looking at your site and have been following with interest the wheelbase discussion so thought I'd throw in some of my own maths to try and clear a few things up.

SV650 (unfaired)
Front sprocket 15t
Circumference = 200.025 mm (=15*13.335mm (chain pitch))
Diameter = 63.66993 mm (=C/pi)
Radius = 31.83497 mm (=D/2)

Rear Sprocket 45t
Circumference = 600.075 mm
Diameter = 191.0098 mm
Radius = 95.5049 mm

Chain length = 1466.85 mm (110(links)*13.335mm)

Now the length of chain covers the distance around the outside of the two sprockets and the two lengths at the top and bottom. So the length of the top and bottom
bits between the sprockets is

533.4 mm = (1466.85 - 100.013(front sprocket C/2) - 300.0375 (rear sprocket C/2))/2

So the distance between the centre of the two sprockets is worked out using the pythagoras theorem

sqrt(533.4^2 - 63.67^2) = 529.5863 mm (63.67 is the difference in radius of the two sprockets)

Now similarly for the SV650s

Front sprocket 15t as above

Rear Sprocket 44t
Circumference = 586.74 mm
Diameter = 186.7651 mm
Radius = 93.38257 mm

Chain length = 1440.18 mm (108(links)*13.335mm)

The length of the top and bottom bits between the sprockets is

523.3988 mm = (1440.18 - 100.013 - 293.37)/2

The distance between the centre of the two sprockets

sqrt(523.4^2 - 61.55^2) = 519.7674 mm

So the difference between the distances between the two sprockets is 9.818953 mm and since the front sprocket is in the same place on the two bikes the rear wheel will
have to be this much further back on the unfaired model which is close enough to the 10 mm stated in the specs I think.

Incidentally if the chain on the S was the same as the unfaired model and the only difference was the smaller rear sprocket the wheelbase would be 3.60687 mm longer
not as Colin Winslett stated 2.11 mm. He also stated in a previous posting that Suzuki could adjust the chain length to make the wheelbases of the two bikes the same,
but in reality a chain must have an whole and even number of links. You would need a chain with 109.463 links on the S model to give it the same wheelbase as the unfaired model. Now if the sprockets were the same and the only difference was the shorter chain length then the S wheelbase would be 13.43352 mm shorter.

The above calculations are approximate and assume that the chain is completely tight and don't take into account that the chain wraps slightly more around the rear sprocket and slightly less around the front one but are a lot more accurate than assuming that the difference in rear sprocket radius is the same as the difference in
wheelbase. I did all of these calculation in a simple spreadsheet if anyone is curious.

Finally, I've managed to move the rear indicators so that my Oxford Sport panniers sit properly.

The idea is to make up a short, squat U shaped bracket, (2.gif) as wide as the number plate (9 1/2" on my bike) and about one inch high to sit between the number plate and the number plate mounting bracket (as per the plan view 1.gif). The end holes for the indicators are 12mm diameter, the number plate holes are about 7mm. I managed to get some stainless steel about 1.5 mm thick, you can make it out of pretty much anything. If you use normal steel, then you'll have to treat it/paint it to stop it rusting. If you use plastic, don't use anything too brittle, and use something that you can bend. The easiest way to bend plastic is to warm the line of the bend over a candle or nightlight, but don't overheat the plastic, otherwise it will bubble or burn.

The other thing to note is that the holes in the number plate may different distances from the edges of the plate. The number plate bracket gets around this by being slotted. If you can make your bracket like this, then so much the better, otherwise, be careful with the marking out. In my sketches, I've drawn the bracket with perfectly sharp bends. It's impossible to make like this, the bends must have a radius, so take this into account when marking out.

When the indicators are moved to their new position, the wires are not long enough to reach the wiring loom. I had to add about eight inches of cable by cutting the wires in the indicators about two inches from the bulb holder and soldering in the new cable. I insulated it all with heat shrink tubing. I guess that you could probably do it with crimp connectors or bullets as well.

To fit the pieces.

Unlock and remove the pillion seat.

The wires from the indicators run up inside the pillion seat compartment and plug into the wiring loom just in front of the tail light with a couple of small, two pin connectors. On my bike, one plug is grey, the other is black. If you can reach these, then fine, I found that I had to remove the front seat and the whole of the rear bodywork, thus:

Remove the two side panels and the rider seat (as per the handbook).

Undo the two self tapping screws under the seats which hold the left and right plastics together.

Remove the grab rail.

Remove the four screws through the rubber seat buffers. Take the metal spacer tubes inside the rubbers out. The front rubbers will come away, the rear ones won't.

Remove the two self tapping screws just inside where the rear indicators screw through the rear mudguard.

Remove the rear bodywork i.e. the coloured left and right sides and the black piece above the tail lights as one unit. It won't come away from the bike completely because of the cable from the pillion seat catch to the lock. Rest the unit on top of the bike.

Now you can mount the bracket, just take out the two plastic number plate bolts and reassemble with the new bracket between the number plate and the original bracket, with the side pieces pointing forwards. Don't do up the number plate bolts too tight, they're only nylon and they will snap easily. Mount the indicators in the new bracket, preferably with shake proof washers. Run the cables back up through the original holes and reconnect the plugs. If you had to take the rear bodywork off, then put it all back together.

Click for Image 1   and      Image 2

After spending a wet and miserable Sunday day trapped in side my sister suggested we got out a video out. I new that my choice of film would not be an option, so I just resigned my self to watching "Step Mum" staring Julia Roberts. During one of the scenes they go to a photo shoot and I am sure on one of the walls hung up is a yellow SV650s. Could this be true ?, at last some recognition for a great looking bike. Fame at last.

Also I am trying to arrange to be there at the ride out, I live in North Yorkshire so its not that far to come.

I have a 99 blue SV650, its the american version, could you please post this on your site somewhere. I know that many people are interested in the american speedo and tach. Just cause they want to convert the european  measures to american. Nothing is wrong with the bike, i will just be racing it and will not need this stuff. Thanks.

PLEASE E-MAIL Shandra! at SAMnetChic@aol.com. make me an offer. Heres the list:

Tank
Front Fender
Tail section
passenger seat
all directionals, will sell individually.
head light, complete assembly
tail light
chain guard
handle bars
kick stand
speedo/tach assm.
passanger grab rail
tool kit
horn
little black side pieces-plastic ones
mud flap thing in front of rear tire
pegs, entire asbly.
bar ends
control box for directionals and high and low beam

maybe some other misc stuff. just ask.

Gazza, the floating disc excuse Ive heard before. Its bogus. All modern sport bikes have floating dics. But the SV ones clunk and the others dont?

Besides if you want to test the theory, slowly ride your bike off of a curb. that always brings out the clunk. Now try it again with the brakes just slightly engaged enough so that they couldnt possibly jolt around to make the noise. its still there.

I think the only tricky part is getting the front end off the ground so you can get the wheel out. But I leave that to the owner's manual to let you know how to do that part.
Before raising the front wheel off the ground though, I recommend loosening a bit but not all the way: (so as not to upset the bike when it is in that rather precarious position after the front wheel is raised)

1.the allen bolt at the upper end of the fork tubes
2. the pinch bolts on the lower triple clamp (or tree I think you call it.)
3. the front fender bolts
4. brake caliper bolts
5. bolts holding the speedo cable in two places
6. 22 mm caps on top of the tubes
7. pinch bolts at the lower ends of the fork sliders
8. axle

I like to loosen these a bit first just in case any of them are so tight that a lot of force is required which might tip the bike over while it is jacked up. Then proceed to remove the front wheel as per the manual. When taking off the front brake calipers, find some way to suspend them with something other than the brake fluid lines, e.g. wire, string. You can damage the fluid lines if you let the calipers dangle from them without supporting them with something else.

Proceed to loosen the upper allen bolts, and lower pinch bolts of the fork tubes, and draw the fork tubes out of the clamps. Then you can remove the 22 mm caps - carefully because the fork spring inside will make it pop away when it is fully loosened. Tip the fork tube/slider assembly enough to drain some of the oil without turning them completely upside down as the inner metal tube, washer-spacer and spring will come out when you do. When enough of the oil is drained, you can turn the fork assemblies upside down and catch these items as they come out. Remember the order. Push the fork tubes up and down inside the fork sliders, and set them aside to let the rest of the oil drain.

At the risk of stating the obvious, turn them right side up and refill with oil and inner parts (spring, washer, inner tube, in case you've forgotten which order they were in). At this time you might want to add extra washers if the tubes sack too much due to your weight (this is how to change the preload). If you do, put them next to the other washer, beneath the inner tube. I also put fork tube protectors (those corrugated rubber things that off-road bikes still use) on, because the tubes are susceptible to dents
from thrown stones, dirt/dried insect accumulation which cuts the fork seals over time and contaminates the fork oil, and cause the need for premature replacement of tubes and/or oil.

Be careful also when replacing the 22mm bolts into the top of the tubes, so that you don't cross-thread these items. You will have to compress the spring a bit to do it. Make sure they are well on their way to being threaded in by hand before using the wrench.

When putting it all back together, make sure that the fork tubes are pushed up into the triple clamp/trees to where the top of the tube is just visible above the upper clamp, and the same amount on each side (left/right fork tubes). If the sliders aren't  perfectly parallel, it doesn't matter because they will rotate and you can align them when you replace the front wheel. Again, refer to the owner's manual for replacing the front wheel. And make sure everything is tightened before riding. Again pardon
me if I am giving too much information, but I don't know what your level of mechanical expertise is, so I'd rather err on the side of too much information.

PS..I know that many have suggested a 'how to' section be created...this is one of the things in the waiting list...

Anybody want a hugger? I bought one, fitted it, then did'nt like it. There's nothing wrong with it, I just did'nt like the look of it. It's plain black and cost £45. If anyone around north Suffolk wants it, make me an offer. russell@gladwish.fsnet.co.uk.

Also about the front cylinder. Mine keeps missing / hunting, at low revs when I'm pootleing through the 30mph zones. I mentioned it to the dealer when I had the 4000miles service done, but it has'nt changed. ( He did'nt sound that interested really). Is this all part of the same problem others have been having.

I got to chase the 800cc SV for about a lap last weekend at Willow Springs raceway. Coming off Turn 9 and onto the front straight, that bike pulled on me harder than any 600 did in my practice session. My own SV isn't a slouch, making around mid to high 70s on a Dynojet dyno at the rear wheel. Ledesma's SV was amazing.

I spent a good deal of time talking to Ledesma's tuner in the pits, evidently the bike was pulling R6s on the half mile long front straight. HP and torque numbers are claimed to be nearly twice that of stock. An outrageous claim for sure upon initial reception, but after seeing the end result disappear into the horizon myself, not entirely unrealistic.

From the looks of it, we're going to see more than a few pumped SVs competing in the AMA Pro Thunder series, which is currently dominated by 748s. I may have to ring up Seevers for that 750cc kit soon...

Just thought I'd drop you a line to see if anyone else has had corrosion problems on the front forks. This was a bit of a shock to me as it hasn't been used over winter at all. It's been kept outside under a canvas cover since the end of November, but when I uncovered it last week, I've found the metal is coroding beneath the laquer in several places on both fork legs. It looks terrible, and to my mind, is unacceptable quality.

I previously had a 600 Bandit (they have painted forks) and ran it through 2 winters with no such problems. Anyone else suffering in the same way? (I have some marks at the top of one of the fork legs but it's not too bad otherwise.....mind you, I should have bought shares in WD40 !)

I'm going to try warranty claim with the dealer, but don't hold out much hope, though I'm sure that if I tried a trade in, they'd reduce the price 'cos of the state of the forks ...!

Other than this (major) disappointment, and a faulty battery (replaced under warranty) my SV has been great.

It's now obvious twelve months since the SV was launched that corrosion resistance is all but non-existant....pity....a bit more effort by Suzuki could have lessened the effects we're seeing a great deal.

Would the SV650 do 1000 miles in 24 hours as I am doing the Iron Butt run here in Ireland in June and as this has never been done outside the U.S. before it should been good but I want to know if the SV is up to it as I do not want to shag the bike up?

I am been sponsored by my company at $5.00 per mile for charity so it is importent that I finish , but as I am still new to the SV I would welcome anybodys advice or if anyone has done this type of thing before.

Also, concerning your question to me about the SV and the rain it should drain away from around the fuel filler cap if the drain tube is not kinked. It tends to get caught under the tank. Either shorten it to reduce the risk of kinking or ask your dealer. Here's a link to some 'how to' text from Ian.

A question for the others visiting the site - what is the best way to remove the sealant that gets put on new tyres? I know you are supposed to scrub them in by building up lean angles over a period of time but with only having dry roads once a week at the moment this seems to take forever.

Also I am having trouble with the last 3/4 of an inch at the edges as the bike slides and squirms so much as I am trying to scrub the shine off that I lose confidence in leaning it over that far - what does everyone else do? (it may not be a problem when it is 'hot' but at the moment I need all the grip I can get!)

I have also noticed that I am wearing the tyres closer to the edge on the front compared to the rear, is this the same on everyones bike, or is is just the profile of the Pirelli tyres?

I picked up my long-awaited red bike on 2-19-00, and yesterday (2-21-00) read with dismay the recall information on your site, which I had just found. I immediately called my salesman (the owner of the dealership) who was blissfully unaware of the recall, but who promised to check into it. Since my serial number fell just inside the range shown in the Suzuki letter, I faxed him the pages from your web site which detailed the recall and showed the numbers.

But happily, he called back this morning to say that when the bike was uncrated last Friday, it had a notice taped to the seat saying "Product Update Completed", which he said meant that the engine modification which was the subject of the recall had been done (somewhere) before the bike was shipped to him. He said all the service bulletins and recall notices are routed straight to his service department and they hadn't informed him.

Well, this was good news, but it leaves the new buyer (me) without any documentation that the recall service has been done. I'd suggest anyone who has recently taken or will soon take delivery of a new SV check with their dealer to make sure that you know whether that recall service has been performed and that you get documentation of that it's done when it is in fact completed. If you try to sell your bike, any savy buyer will want to know not only IF the service has been complied with, but WHEN in
relation to the delivery date of the bike. Fortunately in my case, there's still snow on the ground here so all I can do is sit on the bike in the barn and make motor noises with my lips, and the odometer still says 00000.1.

I've asked for, and he's promised to supply, a letter on his letterhead stating that the recall has been complied with., and I wlll attach it to my title.

HAVE YOU DONE ANY TESTING WITH STOCK CAM NUMBERS ? IF SO COULD YOU GET ANY NUMBERS HIGHER THAN 100 LOBE CENTERS ON THE EXHAUST CAMS ?

I have visited your website today and I must say it is great. I am riding an SV650S since March 1999 and I think it is the best bike I have ever owned. I used to ride a Honda GT 650 Hawk and after that a Suzuki Bandit 600. I have upgraded the front forks with WP springs and thicker oil and put some decent tyres under it(Bridgestone BT56's). The bike doesn't dive so much under breaking now and the steering has become even lighter and faster. Next thing to do is a titanium exhaust and a Dynojet kit.

Last December & January I told you about the gear leaver problem. Well I've had to strip and clean it again, it seem that the salty water is washing out the grease and corroding the aluminium nipping the plastic bushing against the steel spiggot. Once the leaver stops the leaver returning to the tart point the bush needs replacing.

About the frontend noise I found it is due to the fork internals knocking together. There is the spring, washer, spacer (which is flimsy & main suspect) & in my case extra spacer I replaced my original extra spacer for a solid spacer (10 mm) and the noise just got worse. I am considering replacing spaces & washer for a single thicker spacer. Unless I see a springkit I hate sending away for things.

Here's a warning, I have a pair of Michelin high sport super sticky tyres when cold they are the worst tyres I have ever used. wheel spins when pulling away, brakes away when cornering even slowly, skids on braking & closing throttle. In fact I have just thrown the SV up the road (bone dry) pulling away from a junction on a deserted street. I have used this particular junction thousands of times.Pulled out bike did a 360 degree an threw me about 4 meters. snapped both brake levers, right foot rest hanger, the foot rest its self was twisted 45 degrees & bent handle bars. I did not feel a thing until I hit the ground just visually noticed everything going round. I been riding over 20 years with 6500 on this bike with metzler & pirelli dragons on it. Tyre is ok after a couple of miles but most people will be at work by then. I will be using Bridgestones again after this.

Here are some links from my resent research on the subject.

www.hotgrips.com
www.customheat.com
http://www.motorcycle-handwarmers.mcmail.com/

I haven't checked any of the manufacturors or the products (only the websites) but it might come handy to people riding in the cold sections of the world.

Question: Can the engine on a SV be damaged from riding long wheelies? (probably) Is there a chance that oil is not properly circulated while the engine is at an angle? (probably) Any mechanics out there with some insight? (probably)

I've just picked up the new Suzuki accessories catalogue from my local dealer (they've only just received them) and I've scanned in the picture of the lower fairing and the gel seat (I've ordered one of these). The lower fairing costs £209 (including VAT) and the gel seat costs £109.

Click for fairing and gelseat images

Bill in Memphis, TN USA, ask: Is this SUZUKI SV-650 all that much a greater ride than Honda Hawk-GT that I should trade off? Having read some comments about: SV650 slimey rear end (I haven't heard that one??), crank-case oil cavitation,  need for front springs, front cyclinder fouling out, etc.

Maybe I should wait another year or two for SUZUKI to get-it-right. With patience in TN (maybe so....at least all the problems/issues are out in the open and you know about them...if you haven't ridden an SV do so then it may be easier to decide...)