Just to let you know that I've been on one track day so far. I rode up to Donnington Park from Kent last August on my bog standard SVS and had a brilliant time. I managed to do quite a lot of overtaking, despite having quite a few R6's in my group, and the whole event made me realise that it's really easy to go fast in a straight line; the skill is in how fast you can negotiate the corners! That sounds obvious, but going round the track on my SV, I was overtaken by quite a few 'bigger' bikes (R6's
595's 1200 bandits) only to gain my track position on the corners.

Try to go on a 'controlled' day rather than a 'hell for leather' nutters day out. I've heard some worrying stories about mulitple spills at some of these events, whereas if you get too hot headed on a controlled day you get 'sin binned' both for your own and your fellow track users safety.

Hope I haven't scared you off. One more thing: if you do a whole day event, you'll probably be pretty knackered by the time you've ridden home! Have a great day.

I own a race team with CMRA/CCS and would like some advice regarding our 1999 V-650. An article in April's Roadracing World described de-restricting (changing the engine mapping and increasing available horsepower) an Aprilia for closed course racing, which is accomplished by cutting a wire on the ECU (black box).

Is any opportunity to do this with the SV-650. Our team mechanic has rewired the bike, but is still confused by the black box wiring leading from the shift positioner. 

As a recently qualified rider, I am considering an SV650 as my first bike. I would welcome comments from other new riders on how they found the bike.

Also, as a relatively tall person (6' 2" or 1.88m) I would also be interested in feedback on the bike's suitability.

It's a piddly little horn. What I did was to get a new horn, one of the flat ones with a spiral horn on the top, mount this where the original horn was. Then chop the spade connectors from the end of the horn cable, and crimp some new ones on, along with another piece of cable, which runs back into the frame and then out between the yokes. This then has another couple of spades on the end which connect to the original horn. The original horn is then mounted on the headlight bracket or the right
fork leg or somewhere convenient. i.e. have the two horns wired in parallel.

It's not as loud as the air horns that I had on my old Honda, but the air horns and compressor are enormous and it was a pig to find somewhere to fit them.

IIRC the bandit has two horns, one on each fork leg?

Also from Ian........this on the subject of pillions.....

A friend of mine wanted a ride on the back of my (then) new bike. He admits to 16 stone. I've got an unfaired 1999 bike and I've reduced the preload to the minimum. Even two up, the suspension didn't bottom out, even over some pretty rough roads. It was very stable in the corners as well. I didn't get the front to bottom out either, but then I didn't try braking too hard, as he was holding on round my waist, hence I had his weight as well as mine on my arms.

First let me say what a great site you have , I have perused your pages and gleaned much needed info on the SV.

I started riding when I was 14 ( am now 51 ) and progressed to a Vincent HRD 1000 Rapide on which I completed 221 k miles ( hell of a lot for a british bike ) However the constant kickstarting of said same beast caused probs with right hip etc so It had to go . From then I had the usual succession of jap 4cyls which I find bland and
characterless so in a moment of madness I bought a 748bip Ducati (wonderful machine but totally impractical ) Now after 3 years of the Duke I have sold it and ordered an unfaired red SV. The best deal I could find on a 2000 bike was at George White of Swindon £3995 on the road and delivered ( They squirmed a bit when they found that I live in Norfolk) Should arrive 1st May ( guess who's taking a weeks holiday ?? ).

Now for the real point of writing to you. I own a motor factors in Norwich and as such I have access to certain spares at trade ( near to wholesale in some cases ) prices for example we are agents for EBC brake pads and discs , Fornalls rear monoshock units and there is a possibility that I can obtain " performance suspension fully adjustable rear monoshocks from the states ( about £260 + VAT and postage with 4 weeks lead time ) we are also agents for EBC clutch , Nippon denso and NGK plugs ,Morris lubricants. 

If you are interested I will compile some prices for fellow owners ( I can't wait to join you ).  Yes, please send the information and I will post it...

I have a red '99 SVX in the USA - Arlington, VA. Someone recently tried to steal my ride. I park it in a parking lot with a cover and when I went down in the morning to warm it up the cover was gone. Then I noticed the bars were bent, then I noticed the ignition was damaged. Looks like they tried to pop the ignition or the steering lock and bent the bars in the  process. 

Anyway, looks like the ignition and/or the steering lock is somewhat theft proof since an '85 Virago was stolen that same night in the same parking lot. Now it's off to the shop to get an estimate.

I want to make sure everything gets fixed - does anyone have any suggestions on damage to look for that wouldn't be apparent from an attempted theft?

It's Emma again - the one with the micron high level xaust. Whilst I have been laid up (bone graft - on the healing path now), I have been fitting a few bits and bobs - or rather mate Dave fitted.

I attach some piccies of the pyramid undertray we fitted - its nice, and I am glad, because after 8 hours fitting it flippin well should be! We had to cut some bits of the undertray away to accommodate the exhaust bracket,  and cut off the mud flap - so fiddley - allow at least a whole Sat/Sun to fit this.

I've got a purple engine bolt kit to fit, and I have also found a fybo-lite yoke cover (cos mine was getting scratched) and it looks really nice - some had the risers cut out for the unfaired model - there was only one  shape cover for both bikes.

But I think it looks really good - especially along with the seat cowl (also pyramid). I am gathering a few friend to come with me to your May 14th ride out, looking forward to meeting all the other SV lovers - so see ya all there.

<<image01.jpg>> <<image04.jpg>> <<image07.jpg>> <<image08.jpg>> 

Not really a problem for me... I'm 12 stone (or less) about 76.2Kg (think) and the wife is smaller and slimmer (be about 10.5 stone or 66Kg, won't tell me cos she's female and thinks I'll make fun of her). If it is a regular occurrence then you will want to up the rears preload one or two notches (as outlined in the manual). Note: the front will seem/be alot lighter with a weight on the back, but this is true with any mono-shock bike I've ridden two up on.

I have notice that the MEZ 4 rear tyre (yes I know I should replace  them but there is still another 5-9tkm in them) squats a fair bit when the wee wifey gets on. MEZ4 seems to have fairly soft walls, I think BT57's  would be better. I also think the extra weight pushes the MEZ4's well past their design weight limits as I have had a few front and rear slides when two up with them (but not when riding solo when I corners alot harder).

Summary: not a prob if ya wifes not fat, notch up your rear suspension and put on some half descent tyres.

Here is a site with many interesting and informative links and articles regarding motorcycles.

http://motorcycles.about.com/autos/motorcycles/index.htm

Also, I thought I might add a few comments regarding water in the fuel tanks. 

I suspect the most common cause of flat spots in the power band come from water in the fuel, probably due to condensation, something that occurs very readily especially in cold weather, just as the dew forms thickly on cool mornings. 

If the tank is only partially filled, the rest of the space has air which also contains water. As the temperature drops over night, that air is less able to keep the water suspended in gaseous form, so it then condenses into liquid droplets. Water being heavier than fuel, it sinks to the bottom of the tank and won't be allowed to evaporate when the temperature rises again. 

A simple, inexpensive cure for this is to use a gasoline/petrol antifreeze containing isopropyl alcohol. These are made specifically for removing water from the fuel. Remember that the containers sold are usually for treating an entire automobile fuel tank, so use just a small amount (e.g.1/4 container) for a motorcycle. I recommend avoiding the cheaper antifreeze that uses methanol. It doesn't work as well and there are some engines that use parts that can be damaged by methanol. I use the isopropyl antifreeze in my cars and motorcycles on a regular basis as a preventative measure. I think less water in the fuel will also help to prevent rusting in the tank. And if I have to store the motorcycle for any period, I fill the tank to lessen the amount of air with its attendant water inside the tank.

i like many others have been following your site for a good few months now and gone and got myself a black '99 svx which has been absolutely great until i mangled it last weekend up near Ft. William in the Scottish Highlands (great roads and scenery if you don't mind riding a while to get there). (a while like in hours and hours!!)

Anyway to get to the point, I've wrecked the entire front end of my bike and the front forks need replacing and i remember some talk a number of months ago about fitting a gsxr front-end, is this possible? has anyone actually done this? if so was it expensive or difficult or what? 

i would be interested to hear from anyone who knows anything about this. (or maybe it was just my memory playing funny tricks on me again and there was never any such talk)  Anyway, failing this i'm going to try and get my hands on the normal sv forks and all the rest of the stuff, because unfortunately the police figured the accident was my fault (which it wasn't) and my  insurance was third party so i'll be the one who's coughing up.

I'll try and send some beautiful pictures of my mangled beast soon for all to see, miraculously i only suffered a broken wrist and some major bruising which goes to show about what you have said on numerous occasions about wearing good protective gear. (enough said...)

I just installed the new Vance & Hines full stainless S4 system on my SV. 

I took photos of the system and installation process to help anyone else interested in the V & H system to get a feel for the looks, install process, and even the sound.

I bought the system sight unseen (except for the can) and trust me I looked for a picture with no luck. I was pleasantly surprised with the fit and finish. I got lucky, the rest of you now can see what you're going to  get.

The site is located at: 

http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_VandH_exhaust.html

I really enjoy your informative site! -John. I have enclosed a couple of photos of me and the bike.

Image 1     Image 2      Image 3

I've noticed a goodly few people complaining about corroding fork legs on the site - just thought I'd let you know what a far more experienced (than me!) mate suggested (even though the road salt is nearly gone). Wash the legs thoroughly (and I mean thoroughly), then cover them with a good layer of Vaseline. Leave this on through the winter. It will soon look horrible, as all sorts of sh*t will stick to it, but when you wash it off (with lots of WD40) you should find that they look as new. I did this, and rode my SVS all through a Yorkshire winter, and the fork legs are unmarked (admittedly the bike is garaged at night).

Also, I use Castrol Chain Wax, and found that a quick squirt of this over some of the exposed bolt heads leaves them with a protective coating that also washes off with white spirit / WD40.

I've also been chatting to a couple of your contributors about fork oil, and wonder if anyone has tried uprating the fork springs (leaving the same grade oil in). This should buck up the front end a bit, without reducing the rebound rate (a problem afflicting those who've tried changing to a thicker fork oil).

Any suggestions for fork springs anyone?

For the "poppit" things, after you've removed the bolt from the side cover just take the same allen key you use to remove the bolt and poke it in the middle of the "poppit" fastener, it will recess and the side cover will come out. To replace just pull the center piece of the fastener out until it allows the "claws" to squeeze together (you'll see what I mean when you get it off) slide it into the side cover and the bodywork, then push the center piece flush with the rest of the fastener an there you have it.

On the airbox, that is a moisture drain, just drain it from time to time by removing the sleeve cover.

Hope this helps.

Me, I'm anxiously awaiting my lower from Tech-Line!! 

Also, to confirm the cover removal this from Max (maxl@iafrica.com)...

Edwin asked about removing the black side covers, here's how. In the centre of the plastic fastner is a pin, using a small nail or similar just push the pin futher into the fastner. To re-asemble just pull the pin out, replace the fastner and push the pin until flush with the mushroom head. Hopefully this will help.

Also, also.....this from Colin (joycec@freenet.co.uk)...

Don't know if this is stating the obvious, but get a nail with a diameter equal to the centre of the "poppit", grind or file a flat on to it, position carefully over the centre and hit the nail gently but positively with a hammer. This will knock the centre in allowing the panel to be removed, for re-assembly remove the "poppit" from the panel and pull the centre pin all the way through (do not push it back out), locate the panel in position on the bike and loosely bolt, then put the outer of the "poppit" back in place making sure it goes through the panel and the frame, push the centre in as far as you can by hand and then gently tap the bit sticking out with a hammer, the pin should just pop back into place.  It is designed to do this as it works by the centre pin pushing out the legs of the outer outwards so locking it in place.

We are currently thinking of buying our next car over the net, using oneswoop.com or similar, the idea being that we all know we get ripped off in the UK and I have been watching the situation in regard to the SV650 for the best part of 6 months.

I currently ride a YZF1000 Thunderace and due to impending, definitely frightening insurance renewal and the fact my wife is about to do a Direct Access course (..and the insurance company would laugh at cover on a new rider on one of those) , I am sold on a blue SV650S. The problem is, I am NOT going to pay what the UK is expected to. In short, are there any Continental dealers wishing to do a deal, France, Belgium, Holland, Germany or any of the EU, I'll probably pay  in Euros ('cos it's cheaper!) and I do not mind travelling.

If any dealers respond to this,it may be something more relevant for your UK readers as opposed to the ins and outs of importing to the states. This years price rise is a disgrace! (yes but it was always on the cards after new prices were dropped because of the parallel threat...now that's decreased due to Honda's court action against several parallel dealers in the UK the manufacturers see fit to start to bump the price up again...)

My girlfriend (god bless her) has bought me a track day for my birthday. I have done track days before (I also own a TZR250 screaming stroker !!!). However i have decided that (well girlfriend has..god damn her !!), there is no justification for owning 2 bikes and the TZ has to go soon, before the track day (June 30th at Oulton...cant wait !!!)

Has anyone out there done a track day on their SV ?, is there anything they wish they had done beforehand ?. I will have some new tyres on by then. Apart from that the bike is mechanically "stock". budget wont stretch to a big bore kit or full penske suspension, however, uprate brake pads ?, change fork oil ? braided hoses ? (do you have to drill your sump plug too?)

My bike is being repaired at the moment..3ft wide line of diesel on a roundabout..took 2 of us out. Is there any form of action we can take ? (I appreciate lawyers will more probably be found accessing the Ducati or MV Agusta sites !!!), the cops who attended suggested that there wasn't. (if you know who spilt it then it's possible but without that where do you start?)

great site, gutted about missing the rideout.....still those tulips should be worth seeing !!!! (tulips? are you going to holland then? you do know were meeting near the NEC and staying in the UK don't you!!)

I was remotely interested in a louder horn for my SV last year when I was riding behind my wife and honked the horn to get her attention to no avail.  I later asked her why she didn't acknowledge me and she said she couldn't hear me and even though the stereo in the car was not turned up. 

Yesterday I became more interested after a car pulled in front of me and did not stop or pay me any attention after two honks of my horn. It is strange the driver waited for the car in front of me to go by and then turned directly in front of me. I always consider myself invisible to others as that is how I am treated but I would like to better get their attention when need be. I narrowly missed that car and losing control of my bike and vow to do something to improve my odds of being noticed. 

Others have mentioned a louder pipe but I would like a cheaper alternative for now as my wife is not crazy on spending that much. Anyone heard of a louder horn for the SV or have the same problem? Kindly let me know if you have any advice as I have not heard any other complaints on this subject.  (I guess you could just go to a parts dealer and ask for something louder, they must do them to simply fit in place of your current one. Failing that fit air horns and that should do the trick. If all else fails get a Pan European, wear a white lid and get a yellow jacket with 'POLICE' written on it......grow a beard too!!))

I just bought an SV and found this on the net from http://www.sudco.com/


New SV650 Carb Kit Available

These Dual FCR carburetors are available in either 39mm or 41mm sizes. The 39mm kit dyno tested with an increase of 14 peak horsepower, and horsepower was increased throughout the RPM range. The most drastic benefit of fitting these carburetors would be the improved throttle response. Especially off of idle you will notice a bigger jump, and during road tests it was difficult to keep the front wheel planted on the ground even in 2nd gear.

Image 1

I just got my Canadian SV650S last Monday. The pictures do not do it justice!! I guess I lucked out since it was not a recalled VIN. I just finished shimming the carbs and rerouting the tank overflow hose. I followed the instructions that were given on your site and my room mate and I did it in about 1.5 hours.

Any hints on the black plastic side covers? I had a very difficult time getting the little poppit things out. I undid one side and then just moved the other one far enough out of the way to loosen the seat mounting bolt. (I've not been able to get mine out either, I just pull the cover back and out of the way to get at the seat bolt)

When loosening the radiator I found only 3 bolts rather than the 4 that were quoted. Also, to loosen the top right bolt I had to remove the radiator cap. Contrary to what was also stated in an earlier posting my Y2K model did not have multiple groves on the needles.

When I removed the airbox there was a spout on the bottom that had a piece of tubing stuck on it that did not have an opening (open on one end, sealed shut on the other about 1 inch long). Do you know, or has anyone mentioned what this is for?

Here is are a couple of pictures of the bike, one is ok, the other not very good. I am in the center on the poor one, and on the far right in the other.

Image 1       Image 2

Anyone ever find wider rear view mirrors for the standard bike? When I wear a jacket, most of my rear view is blocked. Asked my dealer, he has received many complaints, doesn't know of any better mirrors, wants me to let him know if I find some. (I've not heard of any either although turning the standard ones upside down would probably help...)

How's this for plastic? I would like to see a sport-touring fairing for the sv650. One that is readily removable at trips end (or during), perhaps also a sport fairing that doesn't hide the framework.

First off all, sorry for my poor English but I'm from the Netherlands and writing in English isn't quiet as easy as it is talking English.

I read about different problem about changing oil in the fork, but the best way to make the fork work in my opinion is to buy RACE TECH emulators at Race Tech in Holland (I don't know whether there is a English distributor). I did that on my forks and the bike totally changed off character.

Where it was to hard at some points (straight bumps) and to soft at other times I decided to use the emulator and all my problems where solved . I had to adjust the emulators to my riding style but after a day of riding and light changing of them it was perfect. They advised me to (in combination with the emulator) to use a 30W full
synthetic fork oil with a air chamber off 130mm.

You can obtain them for about f340,- this is about 95 pounds (with out sending) but they work perfect for me. The address is Race Tech,  Benelux, Gagelveld 8, Terheijden in the Netherlands. Telephone number is for the Netherlands: 076-5935636 or fax 076-5932921

The instructions used to say to use a jet kit with the m4 pipe. After talking with the guys at m4 this past December, their work revealed that shimming the needles on the stock set up and turning the pilot screws three turns out gives the best performance with their pipe. 

The instructions now read (mine included) to shim the needles and turn out the pilot screws. The guys at m4 (n Houston TX) told me this recommendation over the
phone as well when I was in the early stages of exhaust shopping.

Hope that helps those out there with jet kit questions.

I would like to know if the sv650s powerful enough to sit 2 on it? What about suspension with 2 on board? Thanks !! soon a sv650s owner! (depends on combined weight, probably need to jack up the rear shock to compensate. This has been talked about before in this web. My advice is to save each of the archive pages and then get hold of a copy of a 'search and replace' type utility to search each html file in batch for text strings, in this case 'pillion' or 'passenger')

A few people have been asking about the fork corrosion (Suzuki warranty claim pending), so here's a picture of the worst part, the bottom port of the left fork leg. As I said before the corrosion is working its way under the laquer, which is now flaking off. (this is not good, let us know what happens....i have a few small flakes and hope it doesn't get worse...)

On another subject, after 5100 miles the original MEZ4 rear is toast, so I've just had a pair of Bridgestone BT56s fitted. They're still at the slimey new tyre stage after 50 miles or so, but starting to feel good. Got to get them scrubbed in time for a track day on April 5th... <grin> I'll let you know more later.

Image 1

See Gregs original posting with the SV images here.

We are entering our riding season here so I am very excited. I have compiled an instruction sheet for people wanting to know how I did the transformation on the SV. I am sending it to you so you can put it on your page. Keep up the great job Kevin . An come to East Tennessee in the United states and ride the "DragonsTail " with us. It is sure to cause a few inches of seat foam to disappear!!!! IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN !!! (and I think you do) (oh....i do....and one day i hope i'll get state side..)

Gregs instruction is contained in an MS Word document with accompanying jpg's all Zipped up in this file. Download here.

Attached are pictures of my SV with the Givi E360 Topcase and Corbin seat installed. I am very pleased with both products and would not hesitate to recommend them to anyone who is interested in making their SV a better tourer. I am sending six different shots of my bike so feel free to use them however you like. (thanks)

Image 1       Image 2         Image 3         Image 4          Image 5          Image 6

Took my son out the other day for him to buy a new learner bike, he's now got a H****a 125cc Shadow (it's OK, you can say the H word on this web!), nice bike for a cruiser style learner. Problem? I now want one ( Wife's problem? Oh God, he's off again).

While there had a look around & thought the Bandit 2000 looked o/k, had a look at the "99 sv650 and thought, nah, just doesn't look as good. Yes, I know (idiot) anyway, came home and thought I would look on the web and try to find some info. (I know , I know, I'm getting there).

Found your page, eventually and that was it, in just one more week I will be collecting my "W" reg Black sv650s. God, the wait is killing me! As I'm an old, old man, nearly 42, I am also adding a hugger from NWS, fender extender from either MPS or M&P, ( anyone tell me if they make one that you don't have to screw on ???) and also engine protector bars as I like the look of them and if I am unlucky on our diesel,rubber,oil covered roads hopefully they might stop some damage. ( Anyone again, want to tell me yes/no ?, as I also wouldn't mind a lower fairing).

A few odd bits of info that someone might be interested in are:

Water in fuel = try fuel injector cleaner in petrol (not the whole bottle! as that would do a whole car tankful). This would not stop water getting in but helps it go through carbs, instead of blocking them. One drop of water can stop a carb working.

Petrol cap = Has anyone thought of drilling a small 1mm breather hole in cap so that cap could be sealed to stop the water getting in. This would be just as safe as the cap not being sealed to let tank breathe.

Rusty fasteners on engine etc = Try a clear nail varnish, made to be used in water and washing up liquid, and used to use it on my bikes back in 70's, worked quite well on the poor Japanese chrome fasteners we had to put up with back then.

Clear lacquer spray and Hammerite spray worked very well on engine cases and fork legs on an old Honda Benley and Honda ns125 that we did up for my son to learn on. Could applying these early on in the life of the sv650 stop some of the problems that everyone seems to be suffering
from, with weather damage to fork legs, front of engine, etc.

Has anyone tried using spray on grease for carb and choke linkages instead of WD40, and do they still sell the graphite grease for cables ? Just a thought.

I have now spent a lot of time reading the info on this site, and as most of the major problems now seem to have been located (I'm pretty sure they have...), though maybe not addressed by Suzuki, I really do think that as you started this, and have kept it going, that you should have some kind of thank you from Suzuki (good!). Sorry, but I don't think you're going to get one (oh...), so instead you'll just have to do with my thanks for such a brilliant site. (and I appreciate it from all who are pleased with the web...thanks..)

I have been considering purchasing an m4 exhaust and header. I was told that this brand provides the most power compared to others. I was thinking about buying the two brothers system, but I was told the m4 is better constructed and looks nicer. I just need comments on whether or not I'm making a good choice.

Finally I will need a jet kit to accompany my exhaust. There is the dynojet brand and the factory which were both recommened. The shop said that I might have to drill the slides or something though if I got the dynojet brand. Is this true? Should I drill the slides anyways? I was not sure what they meant by the slides. I need some help with the installation of the jets if anyone could direct me to some instructions. If you can help (I can't) then drop me or Kieran an email please...

Well, today I take delivery of my 4 hours uncrated 2000 Blue sv650y. (Shudder Shudder Joy Joy) Thanks for the info on the recall and my dealer here in Colorado claims that all of the bikes being shipped now have had the service for the recall completed in the factory. Needless to say I'm going to want to get a little documentation on that.

Wanted to buy the small upper fairing from Suzuki but the parts department says so far out of stock my new bike will have wings before it gets in. Any ideas as to where I can get my hands on a fairing/windscreen NOW? Anyone is the US help out on this one?

I've finally managed to get riding again - picked up my nice shiny blue S model last week and took a blast up from Bristol to the National Motorcycle Museum. It's definitely worth a visit, though I was disappointed at the distinct lack of bikes parked up there. (this may change on the 14th May......)

On the way back I decided to take the scenic route via Stratford upon Avon and the Cotswolds. I pulled into Stratford to have a bite to eat and a cup of tea, only to stumble across about two hundred motorcycles, of every description, parked up near the water. What a sight! After chatting to some of the riders I found out there is a big meet there, just by the waterside, every Sunday (I  don't usually pay too much attention to that section of MCN). I was thinking it might be fun to stop off there on the rideout and swell their numbers with a swarm of SVs, if only for a short while before we move on. I don't know how anyone else feels about it but it is a nice place, lots of culture and all that - but no speaking in iambic pentameters! (in what??? I failed English big time in school - accounts for all the bad grammar and spelling!)

I'm open minded about it so I'll check on the map and see how it looks - Roger, are you still able to suggest a route as discussed in Feb?

My name is MIke and I am just about to get my first street bike in the next year. I am not old enough to ride on the road yet but I do go on the road once in awhile. I have a XT225 dual purpose dirt bike right now and I am debating what to get for my first road bike. I am considering the HOnda F4, Yamaha R6, and the SV650. I would like to know is the SV able to pop wheelies, if yes like is it easy? Also, are those 0-60 times in MPH? and are they right? if u could tell me also the pros and cons of the bikes
and have u ever raced against any other bikes and lost or won? IF so which bikes? And could u tell me some bikes it could beat in a race? My brother just bought a used '96 Kawasaki ZX6R and I have riden it many times and floored it many times. Could the SV win in a race like for say 0-60 or somewhere around there? If i ever raced I would be in like stoplight to stoplight races u know and I would like to know how its low end grunt is? I would just like to know also the things u like about it and the things
u dislike. I know that is a lot to ask but I am really into the motorcycle stuff and I need info because I dont want to make the wrong decision.

Michael...you wrote on the 22/03 and I posted your email and replied...I thought you might have got my drift when I said I wasn't here to lecture...and I'm not...but you ask the same or similar questions again so my replies are :

The SV is as easy to wheelie as most others, it's about balance and skill of the rider not power of the bike, the figures are in mph unless quoted otherwise, I don't know if they are right for sure - I said this last time, I have never raced against any other bikes - I've ridden quickly with a few but racing on the public road is pointless and stupid, if you were to race on the road the machine type is not that important - it would be the skill/bravery/stupidity of the rider that made the difference. If you want a dragster buy a used Bandit 1200 - for power per bucks they are about the best. The things I like and dislike are littered over this web - all my writings are in blue so will stand out for you to read. I hope you don't floor to many bikes too often or the law of averages says you are not going to get up from one sooner or later, I don't wish that on anyone.

One more thing, the info that u give me, is it on the SVS or the SV? both.

Picture of me on my steed. Yosh Exhaust system, Gel seat, tank bra, racetech spring and cartridge emulators.

Image 1       Image 2

I have just had a low speed drop of my SV650SX which damaged the clutch lever, gear lever, indicator and fairing. I phoned around and couldn't get after market bits for the SV as there not yet catalogued.

However my  local dealer in Leeds, Cloin Appleyards put me onto using a patent clutch lever part no 30-64962 which replaces #57620-19C00/27A30 for a GSX600  KATANA/J 88,89-93, GSXR750RE 88 and a few other things and it only cost £5.00 rather than £18.74 and also the official suzuki gear lever is the same as a GSXR750
so they had one in stock so you may be able to get one from a breakers for less money. Worth bearing in mind.

Currently studying the exhaust market for my blue svn, I have a lot of questions...

- full system / slip on : if all slip on are involving a cut of the pipe , most of them would be supplied with adapters enabling repositionning of the original muffler. True ?

- Micron full system : one dealer mentionned that the alloy required regular (weekly) maintenance to keep it in shape. He thus recommended the carbon or titanium finish. Here in France, this is worth £ 530 ! Any lower rates in UK ?

- Vance & Hynes : same question, £ 480 in France, but $ 445 in USA, what about UK ?

- Nikko slip on system has been recommended for its excellent price / quality. However, no info / pix found on your precious site or the www. Anybody owns one / can inform me about this product ?

Has any one been pulled for having a race exhaust on and what happened?. (either a slip on or full system).

I'm putting a scorpion slip on race on, on saturday and was curious to know if this has happened to anyone.  Also did you have to notify your insurance company? (only if it enhances performance but, to be on the safe side tell them about it....them having an excuse not to pay out is the last thing you need...)

My reasons for the addition are really for safety, I commute in london everyday and so far I've hit 1 pedestrian (1 point!) who just stepped out from behind a van, luckily
for him I was only going about 10mph, sent him flying, but i still dropped the bike and cracked the fairing, and countless drivers turning right THEN indicating causing quite a few brown trouser moments! I am an extremly vigilant and defensive rider so I just think if they can hear me comming, it might make a few more dozy bastards wake up and maybe check in their mirrors first!

Any stories or experience on said matter would be greatly appreciated. Keep your cheeks tight...

Because of the unacceptable high insurance costs (full insurance: 1100£/year) here in DK I'm about to add an immobiliser/alarm to my baby. The only problem is that I don't have the service manual (not available in DK as far as I know) and especially the diagram of the electrical system. Can anyone of you help me with that?

Cost £97 all in, only oil and oilfilter was replaced.

I asked them to check the cam chain tensioner and was told if it didn't move onto next 'notch' within 1000 miles then to take it back...I'll keep listening.... Also complained about black paint worn off water pump housing. Was told Suzuki wouldn't replace the cover so some paint was applied to the affected areas and it looks OK (for now...).

Everything else is OK and I'm out all day tomorrow going to Bruntingthorpe (speed testing airfield in UK) to view some testing of a 5 litre DAX (looks like a Westfield) hill climbing car that my brother maintains for it's owner...should be interesting :- ) Kevin.

UPDATE 23/03/00 (not bike related at all !!) - a lovely sunny day, dry roads, 280 miles, 170 miles from a tank full (best ever consumption!) and a great day out. The couple of hours I spent at Bruntingthorpe was great too, even got a ride in the 5 litre, 450bhp, 750kg, 4X4 DAX 'kit' car....stunning performance and awsome sound....I'm a bike man but this car is the fastest thing I've been in/on...hopefully it will beat all the competition in this seasons British Midland Hillclimb series..

Image 1    Image 2     Image 3

My brake pads needed changing. I was quoted by 2 separate dealers nearly £150 for supply and fit of both front and rear! which i have to say seemed a bit steep. So I sent off to M&P for some EBC 'double H' sintered pads  for the front and kevlar for the back for the grand sum of £45. I wasn't sure how to fit them so i paid a mechanic friend £35 to fit them and   watched. I was amazed at how easy it was and chuffed at saving £70. Now I know how to do it, next time I'll save £105.

Just make sure of the left and right pads are on the correct side and be meticulous with your dis/re-assembly, remove the two bolts that holds the calliper on, with needle nose pliers take out the cotter pin and slide the round bar out that holds the pads in place, remove old pads, keep the thin metal plate that goes on the back of the
outside pad, checking the shape against the new ones so you don't get lost.

Clean up the callipers with anka de-manka then using the handle of the socket wrench or a big screw driver, lever and ease the round pistons back into the calliper, apply copper slip to the backs of the pads and on  the round bar that holds the pads in place, you don't need tons, making sure not to get ANY on the fronts of the pads or the disks.

Re assemble with the new pads and replace bar and cotter pin, clean up any wayward copper slip and replace calliper with a touch of slip on the bolts and do them up
tight!. Now do the other side and when finished extend the pistons by applying the brake a good few times! Don't forget to bed your new pads in.

I know it's an extremely important part of your bike so if your not confident or If your not sure get a mechanic to do the job for you and ask nicely if you can watch! with the money you save you could chuck an  extra £40 to it and go and buy a slip on silencer which is exactly what I did!

There is a yahoo club for the SV.

Go to http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/sv650rideouts

My name is MIchael and I am only 14 but I am so looking forward when I can get my lisence ( I already ride on the road to place close like friends houses on my Yamaha Enduro XT225). Well I was looking at you specs about performance and I have a question. It says 0-60 in 3.2 seconds. That is close to the performance of an R1. are those right? Is it quick to 60?

Do U have a SVS or just an SV? I want to know some info on this bike! I am looking at an R6 so which one? E mail me and I would appreciate it very much,

On the question of 0-60 then it's likely that the figure are correct, there's only so fast you can get away when you have one wheel at the back. It also depends on the rider , the conditions and the surface etc, etc....0-60 is fast whether it's a SV or most other bikes. I have an SVS. If you want to know some info then it's all here for you. Whether you choose an R6 or an SV depends on how wealthy you are, how much insurance you can afford and what you want from a bike. The question of experience and speed also spring to mind but i'm not here to lecture you about that.....you know what i mean...

Hello all, a small note for what its worth on the fidly bits I found whilst installaing a new ehaust on my SV650S.

I've fitted the Micron Exhaust today, it took me about 4 hours, in total. The midrange has improved as has the top end and the sound is very Ducati-esk. Micron claim that no adjustment to carburation is required, but you can if you want.

The installation went quite smoothly but there was more work than I realised. The side panels and seats have to be removed to get to the rear brake cylinder which is partly used to affix the exhaust mounting bracket. On removing the side panels I had to use an impact driver to unscrew the four crosshead rubber mounted bolts. These are very firmly fixed to the frame.

To remove the side panels don't forget the two small screws near each rear indicator. These prevent the panels from popping off the rubber mounts which are exposed when you take the rear grab rail off. The rear seat locking mechanism on the left hand side is the last bit of attachment between the bike and the left side panel. un-pop the cable mount and rotate through 180 degrees this then slides out and the panels can be put to one side.

Next having soaked all the mounting bolts with penetrating oil for at least 1 hour you can start loosening all the bolts. This does not apply to the join between the front pipe and the rear. I worked from the back of the bike forwards loosening but not removing the exhaust. Once all the bolts are loose, leaving the rearmost bolt at the tail end that the front two cylinder end nuts remove all the bolts in between. Then whilst supporting the exhaust with your foot remove the remaining bolts. The exhaust then after some rotating back and forth comes off as one unit.

Next remove the stud screws at the cylinder end, this is achieved by locking the two nuts removed back on themselves and then unscrewing each stud. Micron say that this is necessary because they will have been damaged during exhaust removal. In fact you remove them because you will not be able to fit the front section of the Micron system with them in place. I used lots of exhaust paste during assembly. The system is a very snug fit with the rear suspension units and when they say do not tighten until later follow their instructions. I found I had installed the front section hard up against the supension linkages. Dohh!

Basically assemble the rest of the exhaust unit "loosley". Then when complete from the right hand side of the bike get a willing assistant to pull the lower section of the exhaust away from the bike whilst you go around to the other side and tighten the bracket between the original stem pipe poking out of the rear cylinder and the Micron down tube. This rotates the pipes away from the swing arm and rear supension units. Quickly tighten the rest of the nuts and bolts before the exhaust sealent paste sets.
Then reassemble the rest of the bike. I used lock nut everywhere once I'd cleaned off the penetrating oil. Once complete get willing assistant back into the garage / workshop and fire it up. Wow! Smiles all round.

Go for a small ish bike run to check it out for leaks, sound, acceleration and hapiness factor.

Got the Micron Oval Alloy (Not for road use) down pipes and end can at the Scottish bike show for £250.00 inc delivery. Definately worth it.

I'd like to thank all the people who wrote encouraging me to do this by not telling me everything but describing the stub pipe used during this install, which remains from the original Susuki.

If I can do this anyone can.

Because of the hassle I had with Pyramid Spastics, sorry Plastics, my dealer, Rex Judd has a spare yellow undertray for a Suzuki SV650(S).

Only saying this 'cos they did an ace job on mine and it looks cool.Let me know if you're interested.

I have been watching this web page for approx one year now and would like to   congratulate you on creating a great site. I first saw the SV in an advert about a year ago and was immediately smitten, reading your site confirmed that this was the bike for me and I finally got a yellow SVS on March 1st, since then I have done about 900 miles all of them with a big grin.

Today I followed the How To on carb shimming posted by Brett (which incidentally was very good and much appreciated) and found that my 2000 SV does have slots in the needle, I take it this is one of modifications made to the 2000 models. I moved the E clip down one notch, this is about the equivalent of two thicknesses of the washer, is this likely to cause  any problems? The exhaust is still the stock system.

I have only been able to take the bike out for a short run but it still feels like there is a flat spot around 5000rpm, above this the bike seemed to pull much harder and I was having to change up much earlier than I have been used to.

Thanks for a great web-site.I have just sold my YZF750 and taken delivery of a 650sv-purchased from Carnells and it let me down after only half a mile.The fuel line was trapped under the tank- at least thats what they told me-so much for PDI!!

I am now very pleased with it apart from rough running between 3000 and 4000 revs which hopefully they will sort out at initial service. The bike feels very light after my YZF and I am sure we are going to get along fine. Keep up the good work.

Just a quick warning. By chance I contacted my dealer two day's ago, only to be told that my baby had been recalled. I had thought mine was a '99 model, and anyway was outside the ranges suggested (111100107354). So anyone out there who has not checked with their original dealer, I'd suggest you make a quick call. Not that bothered as dealer already has parts in, just a bit of a pain to have to go over to Germany for it to be done, but that's the price you pay when you live in UK, work in Holland and  import from Germany. It's an excuse to test the top end limit on the Autobahn as well (but only on the way back) not to mention have a beer(s).

Just to confirm that I contacted my dealer about my 99 model and was told that if my bike was in need of the fix then i would get an official letter. I haven't yet.

Yoshimura is showing frame protectors for the SV on their website now  www.yoshimura-rd.com. I can't remember if they are in the "products" section or "what's new section".

Just wandering if anyone would be interested in trading in their "black" rims for a set of silver ones from 99? I in Ontario Canada...

I have a 1999 sv650x 3,400 miles. About a week ago I noticed a crack in the rear tire (stock Metzeler(sp?)) about 2 inches down from the center on the face of the tire, not the sidewall. Crack is about an inch long, looks pretty deep, and does not appear to be from a road hazard. Tire did not burst and has plenty of tread left.

I took it to an authorized Suzuki dealer and they spoke to Suzuki who said it's covered under warranty. Suzuki has yet to look at the tire to determine the cause. Parts and labor would have totaled $212 US  dollars.

I installed a Givi E360 Topcase and Monorack on my SV yesterday and am happy with the results. No more wearing a backpack jammed with stuff for me anymore. Installation was easier than expected except for two minor problems -

#1 The four metal pieces which go inside the rear frame rails had to be filed to fit and

#2 The four little rubber pads on the base plate had to be removed because the case would not snap into place, even with two people pushing.

I considered the rack offered by Suzuki here in Canada which installs in the place of the grab rail. The benefit to this rack is ease of installation and removal (two bolts) but the downside is you have to buy a soft tail bag to be bungeed in place. I travel with luggage 90% of the time so the Givi with its locks and sturdiness was right for me but I would suggest the Suzuki rack to anyone who does not want to use the bungee rails under the seat for fear of scratching the tail bodywork. I still couldn't find a price for the Suzuki rack but my Givi with case and rack cost $279 Canadian. I tried to send pictures earlier but it didn't work. Any tips? (any error message?) Thanks to Kevin for the great site and the readers who have responded to my questions in the past.

I noted David's mail (dmingay@maritz.co.uk) and he has two identical problems to me:

1) The bike has now done 7000 miles and I'm proud of the fact I've kept the corrosion generally at bay (religiously wash it down after each run), excepting the fork legs. I've enclosed a couple of pictures and have sent an email to Dave to see if my examples are better/worse than his.

Image 1   Image 2

2) A number of people have had battery problems? I remember one contributor going through two under warranty? Mine won't hold enough charge to start the bike on choke after 3 days of inactivity! Until it goes in for the next service, I've invested in an Optimate battery conditioner. Excellent piece of kit, highly recommended. It comes with a cable that can be routed out from underneath the front seat and up under the back seat. Hurrah! No more fiddly operations of taking the battery off for a charge - just park the bike in the garage, remove the rear seat and hey presto - hook it up to the Optimate. Available from MPS, amongst others.

3) I enclose a couple of pics of a front fairing indicator mod I think works really well. Some "remodelling" of the indicator mounting lugs inside of the fairing is required, so don't think of fitting them if you ever want the standard indicators back on! You need to be mentally strong with a Stanley knife and/or junior hacksaw! Got these from MPS, and they are available in standard orange, white or smoked (which is what you see here). I'm dead chuffed, I think they look great. Anybody interested can email me, and I'll describe what needs to be done. It takes about 45 minutes to do the first one, and 30 for the second (once you have sussed out how to take the fairing panel off, and how much plastic to shave away).

Image 3   Image 4

The Micron system goes on at the weekend - can't wait after what I've seen posted on this site.

Looking forward to seeing a few people on May 14th.

I thought you might like a few pictures of my SV650 with Shark Skins and M4 high pipe.

Images --->     1sv650.jpg       2sv650.jpg        3sv650.jpg

I've had it corrected twive by ny dealer which I had to pay for as they (and presumably Suzuki) say that it's not a mechanical/design/warranty problem but a result of dirt / salt / crap of of the roads. Now it has started to stick again. I haven't seen a manual yet and I'm not especially mechanically orientated and yet I don't want to continuously have to have this job done at my expense.

Are there any mechanics out there who could offer some advice. Is it a simple operation to clean and relube? Could a novice undertake such a task? Advice and detailed instructions would be a life and wallet saver.

How old is your bike, not very old I bet. I don't get this problem and I ride mine all year round and it's over 12 months old. If it's happened again, after Suzuki have fixed it once, I think it unlikely just to be dirt, sounds like a problem somewhere. Be former with your dealer, tell them this is not a common problem (refer them here if you want) - anyway, if they fixed it then it shouldn't be causing a problem again so soon.

I need help !!

i've an bike crash with my sv & the front tubes are out. Nobody for the moment make it in france, only original but it cost too much..

Do you somebody who can sell one to me. ?  Only the front tubes are out, i've got the spare oil etc....

Thanks for your help, soon a tuning web site of mine .

You can have a look of my ex bike on http://waregh.free.fr    The sv will become a tuning one too..

In answer to your question, yes jack up plates move the footrests back and up about 20mm. I found that sometimes the riding position screamed out for a more flat across the tank position. They work ok, I have long levers for legs so was concerned that they may cramp me up, but I find them quite comfortable, and they are a lot cheaper that a full rearset.

Some info for you. Chad sent a message on the 14th asking about frame protectors. Well I have found some. I know the boy's on the SV650 mailing list have been playing around with some home made items, but I have  just received Demon Tweeks catalogue, (just down the road from you yep, Wrexham) www.demon-tweeks.co.uk. Don't know what they are like, and won't get a chance to order them as about to disappear for two weeks chasing the sun, but if anyone gets them, let us know what the score is. Anyway....

Crash Bung for SV650 - BSDCPSU003 at 35.00 GBP

Also on the subject of frame sliders this from Eric (eborch@vssad.hlo.dec.com)...thanks Eric...

Try these 2 sites:

http://www.inturace.com/default.htm
http://www.rammc.net/

They mention them for an SV, don't know if they're available yet or not. Good luck.

I have recieved your reply and seen the post on the list. But the photo you posted is of a U.K. model of bike ( factory fairing attached to the frame). The image I sent you is a very nice looking fairing for the naked version that we get here in the U.S.. This fairing I am asking about mounts to the forks somehow instead of to the frame like the factory fairing. In other words the headlight and fairing turn with the handlebars instead of facing straight all the time. 0svfairing.jpg

Dyno chart (M4 vs stock)

This is a dyno chart I picked up from M4 products comparing the gains with the pipe over stock. Note: This is compared as a straight bolt on. Shimming the needles will increase the curve in the lean area for more gains.     0sv650m4.jpg

Dyno chart (stock)

Here is the stock dyno chart I picked up somewhere, I think maybe sport twin.com? Notice the flat spot in torque and the change in slope of the horse power curve. This is for a stock bike.      0sv650stock.jpg

Can you please put a link to an SV650 message board I just created? www.InsideTheWeb.com/mbs.cgi/mb1031698

OK...done.

In answer to Kevin's question - Why would one want to shim the needles?

Answer:

The bike comes from the factory with a lean spot in the mid rpm range. Upon acceleration, you will notice it will pull hard from dead stop, it then backs off a little, and once past 5000-5500rpm it "power surges". Feels like someone kicked it in the rear and it takes off pulling hard again. This is because the carb set-up is not quite perfect. ( Yes, we are aware that our bike is a dream, but it's not quite perfection thanks to the bean counters at Suzuki!) Most needles on sport bikes have a few slots on the needles that allow you to move the clip up and down the needle for adjustment - the SV does not have this option. Hence adjustments require using shims (washers) of the necessary thickness to tune the needle.

So why shim the needles? To eliminate this lean spot in the power curve. Shimming the needles corrects the fuel mixture problem in this range, and does not effect the higher rpm band performance. Once the needles are shimmed, the bike will pull hard throughout the rpm range, bottom to rev limiter. The result is more power, quicker acceleration, and a tendency for the front wheel to become airborne on command in first with fast snap of the wrist to whack the throttle open. :) SHIMMING THE NEEDLES WILL IMPROVE THE POWER BAND OF THE STOCK SYSTEM AS WELL AS THOSE USING AN AFTERMARKET PIPE!!!! I have talked to some people who have shimmed the needles with the stock exhaust and noticed a night/day difference in performance. A less restrictive, lighter weight exhaust system will give you more horsepower gains through improved throughput. But note that while a pipe will raise the horsepower and enhance peaks in the power band, it will also exaggerate valleys to some degree. ( Thus a lean spot will be a little leaner.) Shimming the needles with the M4 will eliminate the occasional exhaust crackle encountered on throttle roll off with the pipe when it is used as a straight bolt on w/o needle adjustment. It will cure the lean surge, and give you extra power in the lower rpm range.

My person explanation for this lean spot is two fold, based on no concrete facts - just my intuition. In 6th gear at 65 mph the tach turns just under 5000rpm. ( Exactly 5000rpm at 70 mph for the 99 svx model) This lean spot may be engineered from the factory to help comply with California emissions regulations which if I'm not mistaken require emissions testing to not only pass idle, but pass the test at operating speeds. If the bike is lean, it's fuel "starved", burning less gas and producing less hydrocarbon emissions. My second view ( And probably the real reason) is that the needles are non-adjustable - AKA probably cheaper than ones with slots for adjustment. Since the SV was designed to be "most bang for the buck", while being affordable to the average Joe, it is possible that this was the result of a cost cutting corner. In other words, why pay "Xdollars" per unit for adjustable needles when we can put in "Y" and save some money off our cost! I know it sounds crazy, but for comparison I'll give you an example. I work for a large paint company in the states. ( I'm a chemist - which explains my need to drag things out in gross detail.) If you
develop a cheap contractor product to sell in the market, the margin for profit on such products is small compared to the cost of manufacture, so the more money you can save while meeting the required performance expected by the customer the better. ( More expensive lines offer the ability to be less cost conscious) So lets say you have one paint that has a material cost of $2.50 per gallon, and another that costs $2.51 per gallon.  You may think that is a small difference ( 1 penny!??!?) Well, if you sell 2 million units of that paint a year, then that penny has a net worth of $20,000!!!! See what I'm getting at here?

Anyway, the point is that shimming the needles will eliminate the lean spot in the Sv's power curve and give you better performance, both with an aftermarket pipe and with the stock system. Of course, you'll see more ponies with the less restrictive exhaust, not to mention that the exhaust note will become music to your ears, put an evil grin on your face, and make you feel like a "rebel without a cause."

Happy riding as spring is a week away!

Oh, I almost forgot. Moving the washer under the "e" clip cures the leanness of the SV's engine in the 4000-5500rpm range for free!!!! It will only cost you time and patience. Verses aftermarket jet kits that start at $80+, and require quite a bit of time to perfect. ( Trust me, been there and done that one with my last bike.) And if for some reason you don't like it ( Can't think of a reason why someone wouldn't), you can always move the washer back to where it was. After market jet kits often times require drilling and resizing of carburetor parts that are not reversible. ( Plus I have noticed no apparent impact on gas mileage with the shimmed needles, though I haven't run the bike to complete empty to thoroughly test this observation. :) )

Also this from Tom (tomctx@email.msn.com) in reply to my question...

Kevin, shimming the needles in the carbs richens the fuel mixture throughout the whole rev range. Carbs here in the U.S. have a lean mixture to pass EPA controls and tests. An aftermarket, freer flowing exhaust leans the mixtire even more. Enrichening the fuel flow allows better performance and drivability. This is just a thumbnail, a complete dissertation on fuel could take volumes. Probably several other people are mailing you the same thing, so, ta ta for now.

Also in relation to the shimming post an email from Roger (GrowRH@LOUISVILLE.STORTEK.COM)...

Let me start by saying WOW! Great job with the post (Brett), thanks.  Like all the armchair experts of the world I have a couple of comments for you.

1. If you replace the Phillips (cross head) screws with Allen (internal hex) screws while you're doing a mod like this it will make it easier next time (old dirt bike trick).
Float bowl screws too, while you're in there. A ball end Allen wrench  will even allow you to attack the new screws from an angle next time too.

2. Anti-seize compound on the screws (especially airbox screws) will eliminate future problems as well.

3. I would guess the washer is above the e-clip to keep the spring from working past or binding on the e-clip. Personally, I would add a new washer/shim to the stack to
avoid potential problems in this area.

I came across your wonderful site and sparked my interest.

Just got my motorcycle permit yesterday. I've started looking for a bike and I came across the Suzuki SV650 and immediately fell in love with it. It seems like the SV650 is a cross between a Harley and Honda CBR. (a cross between what??!! how can Harley be mentioned in the same sentence..?)

What category does the SV650 fall under? I've seen pictures of riders with full racing suits instead of jeans and leather jacket. The SV is not a cruiser, it's a Sport v-twin. I've never seen anyone in the UK ride one without decent protective gear and it might be good to pose for a short while but the SV cries out to be ridden hard. 

I'm looking for a street bike such as the Suzuki Katana 600. How is the Katana different for the SV650 besides price? Not sure...

Would you recommend the SV650 for a beginner? Yes, cheap, quick, easy to ride, low seat height...

Has anyone heard of an after market air filter for the SV? I'm sure I've seen them before, but now that I'm looking, I can't find one, and my dealer says that K&N does not have one out yet, and won't for some time. Any suggestions/web pages would be greatly appreciated.

As I have had a flood of emails concerning this issue, I have decided to write one email for all to share. I see that I have sparked new interest in the M4 pipe, think they will give me commission? Tell 'em Brett sent ya! :) (and if you buy an SV tell 'em I sent you...but it won't do me any good!)

Okay, here it is. ( If I forget anything, please let me know as it is a little late tonight.)

Start by removing the seat - this allows the tank to prop up easily. Remove the small allen screws on the side cover plates under the seat, then the larger allen bolts that hold the seat on. Seat should be removed by sliding it toward the tank and lifting up the front.

Next, remove the two allen screws that attach the tank in the front by the forks. Use the prop supplied with the bike ( In the rear storage compartment for you new owners) and prop up the tank. You'll now see the massive air box.

NOTE: While you have the tank propped up, now is a good time to address that "water in the tank" cure. ( See Kevin's/Ian's postings on the fix. ( Yes, I did that too. :) )

Start by finding the phillips screws that are part of the airbox clamps that clamp it to the carbs. ( Rear one is on the right, front on the left side if sitting on the bike if memory serves.) Get some "liquid wrench" machine oil and put a few drops on the threads of these screws. They are VERY stubborn and this overcomes this problem. Let the oil soak in for 15 minutes or so. ( Go get a drink and check your messages.)

Next, use a phillips head screw driver and loosen the screws. Be careful not to strip the heads, apply steady firm pressure. They'll give in eventually if you are patient. ( Note, if you can't remove them, email me and I'll explain an alternate method to get around this problem. Suzuki has a fail safe in the event that the screws are "frozen")

Once the screws are loose, locate the crank case breather hose on the left side of the bike. It attaches to the air box on the left rear side. Remove the hose and lift the air box off the carbs. The drain hose for the box is long and hangs down the center. If there is a little resistance to lifting off the box, this tube is probably meeting some resistance. Find it and wiggle it while pulling the air box up, this will allow removal.

You are now looking at the two carbs. At this time, use some aluminum foil and cover the inlets for now. ( Keep dirt out of it.)

Next, dismount the horn from the frame in the front and move it out of the way. ( 1 bolt 10mm) Now loosen the radiator. There are 4 bolts that hold it on. ( Two bottom, two top. 10 mm) This is necessary to keep from having to disconnect the throttle cables. After the radiator is movable, remove the mounting bolts for the fan assembly. There are I believe three of them, two bottom, one top. The top one is accessible via the interior near the carbs. ( Will have to use a 10 mm wrench due to space constraints.)

Now that all that business is loose and "mobile" slide the fan assembly over toward the right side of the bike, enough to get it out of the way, but don't damage the radiator fins.

Remember that "liquid wrench" you used before? Put some on the clamp screws that attach the carbs to the intake of the heads. You'll need a long phillips screw driver to eventually loosen the front clamp. The screw head faces the right side of the bike. Walk over to that side and look in the lower area of the carb and you will see it hiding in the recesses of the interior. The rear carb clamp screw faces I think the left side of the bike, and is easily seen. ( Don't worry, these screws are easier to turn than the ones for the air box.)

Loosen the clamp screws and carefully lift the carb assembly up. It will easily pull off the intake pipes. It is now somewhat moveable / loose.

FOR THE FOLLOWING, GET A LARGE CLEAN PAN / BOWL AND PUT A PAPER TOWEL IN IT!!!!!!!!! ( Trust me...)

It might be a wise time to recommend going to the hardware store if you do not have the next item. Since the front vacuum cover is difficult to take off given the limited space to get a screw driver in to unscrew the mounting screws, I used the phillips head tip to my black and decker screw gun in combination with an 8 mm wrench to form a 90 degree phillips head screw driver! ( Yeah, I've watched shade tree mechanic...) The screw gun tips can be bought at a hardware store for a couple bucks. I recommend the ones that have about a 1 inch shaft on them, they seem to work nicely.

Now with you new ( Maybe even patentable?) screwdriver "wrench", locate the two screws that mount the vacuum cover/plate. One is on the bottom right, the other at the top left. Apply gentle steady pressure - they will eventually loosen. I recommend starting with the bottom one, then removing the top one last, as the vacuum plate has a weak spring inside.

Placing your free hand on the cover to hold it down, remove the top screw. ( Put both screws in your paper towel lined pan.) Gently ease off the press